SE Asia XXV - Into Cambodia

Having alot of time I was able to stay in some Cambodian towns on the Mekong. I stopped in Stung Treng, Kratie, and Kompong Chom on my way to Siem Reap. In many respects they are very similar. They are all based around a central market (Psar) and they all have architecture that has survived the ravages of the Khmer Rouge, the Vietnamese Army, American B-52 bombers, and the more peaceful though no less destructive modern development. Of the three I would suggest Kratie is the best one to visit.

Stung Treng is the least attractive of the three and has the fewest western visitors. When I arrived on the minibus from Laos there seemed to be something of a hostile atmosphere. The Psar is dirty and piles of rubbish litter the streets. All in all I was wondering whether it was a great decision to rile against the masses and stay in Stung Treng. I found a nice guesthouse to stay in for $5 (double bed and hot shower ensuite). I can't remember the name of the place but there are a number of faceless cake tower guesthouses. I looked in the ones mentioned in the Lonely Planet, they were more expensive and falling apart. In the afternoon I wandered around the town and along the riverbanks and other than stepping over the rubbish it seemed much more pleasant than during my arrival. I caught the bus to Kratie in the morning which only took a couple of hours and cost $5.

Kratie is the prettiest of the three towns. It had the most well preserved French buildings which sat charmingly around the Psar. There was still plenty of rubbish around but not as much as Stung Treng. Of the three Kratie is the most touristy, this is due to the Irrawaddy Dolphin. For $5 ($7 on your own) you can take a boat out into the Mekong to watch them. The Irrawaddy Dolphin seems to take a relaxed approach to being a dolphin and didn't jump around. Dorsal fins pop out of the water regularly and maybe a tail but that is about it. It is still worth going to see them if only to relax on the Mekong and enjoy the scenery. The journey north to the boat landing takes you through villages. I was surprised to see ox carts trundling up and down the road, something I hadn't seen in Laos. I can't remember the name of the guesthouse I stayed in, but if you walk north along the road that follows the Mekong there are three next to one another. Apparently the UN stayed here during UNTAC and the Red Cross are there now. I paid $6 for a double ensuite hot shower. I even got to watch Tottenham win the League Cup. I was shadowed by Khmer Del Boy Mark 2 while I was in Kratie. He was nice enough and his English was good but like a child he did not comprehend that the more he hung around me and nagged me the less inclined I was to listen to him and the more inclined I was to hit him. I was going to the guesthouse that he tried to sell me anyway and then I choose to get him to take me to see the Dolphins. In the morning I was going to buy a ticket for the bus and he intercepted me enroute to get the commission (it didn't cost me anymore). There are at least two different buses from Kratie to Kompong Cham, the one I was on cost $4 and took four hours.

I wasn't in the best frame of mind in Kompong Cham. I was frustrated by the poor selection of accommodation and found the staff at the various places irrritating. I ended up staying in Bophea Guesthouse, the best of a bad bunch. I paid $4 for a double with cold shower ensuite. The ensuite had a steel door that looked like it used to be the cold room in a butchers. If you are only going to Siem Reap and Phnom Penh while you are in Cambodia then you may aswell stop in Kompong Cham to get a taste of small town Cambodia. It again has a Psar and some French buildings. I found Kompong Cham alot less charming than Kratie. For a small town there are alot of annoying moto drivers. I paid $5 for the four hour bus journey to Siem Reap.

Tickets for Cambodian buses appear to be sold per seat rather than per person. A whole family can fiyt iself on two seats. Unfortunately this means a whole family can sit on one seat next to you and they unsurprisngly spread out. From Kompong Cham to Siem Reap I had a small child and her Grandmother who halfway through the journey was joined by another yet smaller child. The bus had a TV and was playing some Cambodian comedy shows. One was the Cambodian Fast Show, there were no gay tailors instead they had a sketch repeated throughout the thirty minutes of three guys throwing a flip-flop and one of the three somehow not throwing it correctly. Comedy gold according to the show and everyone on the bus. Another sketch was the rivalry between a man with a moustache and a woman (no moustache) in a village. The woman kept winning their altercations. Once the Fast Show had finished we had a man and a woman singing a song, it looked like it was filmed back in the 1960s. Again they were having a dispute of some description during the very long song. The lunch stop was a cafeteria of sorts where the plumbing in the toilets had given up so a 'new' floor had been added, a layer of bricks. A cow and calf were nosing around the piles of rubbish, a depressing sight.

SE Asia XXIV - $1 Bribes

The border crossing from Laos to Cambodia is a pretty painless affair as long as you don't mind parting with $1 bills. The bribery of the officials has become quite formalised. Everything costs $1 and if you are not happy paying the fee then you won't be leaving Laos or entering Cambodia. I've been told that the Cambodia Thailand border is more of a free for all especially with the decline in value of the US dollar. It is much easier if you have $1 bills with you. There were 40 odd westerners all crossing at the same time who had come by minibus from Si Phan Don. The customs officials very quickly run out of change and are not interested in helping you otherwise. If you don't have US Dollars make sure you have some form of currency. At the Cambodian border one guy protested that he didn't have any other money (after paying $20 for the visa) and the Cambodian official refused to give him back his passport so someone else paid the bribe for him.

I bought my ticket to Stung Treng from Papa. It cost $14 including the boat transfer (provided by him) to the mainland. Papa walked me to the minibus station and paid for a ticket. I got the impression that they aren't pre-booked, people just show up and they squeeze everyone on to the available minibuses. I'm not sure how onward journeys are checked because I wasn't provided a ticket and Cambodians take over from Lao once you cross the border. The minibuses are meant to leave Nakaseng (the 'port' on the mainland for access to Si Phan Don, an ugly place to say the least) at 8am but as expected we didn't leave until closer to 9am. There were 5 minibuses packed with Falang and piled high with rucksacks. It took about half an hour to get to the Laos border checkpoint. The photo at the top is of the Laos bordering crossing point. Two guys sit in the shed one takes your $1 bribe and the other stamps your passport and takes your departure card. The Chinese are building a big new highway here but when I passed through it was a dirt track. The minibus drops you here and they drive to the Cambodia border with your luggage, just a five minute walk across no man's land.

The Cambodian border is a bit more impressive than Laos shed. There are a few buildings and quite a few officials. The first thing you have to do is apply for your visa which means filling in a firm and providing a passport photo. If you don't have a passport photo they charge you $1 to take your picture. A couple of swiss people had their passports examined very closely and were made to wait a bit longer than everyone else but they eventually got their visa. I did not have a Cambodian visa. It costs $20 on the border plus a $1 bribe. Next up is up your arrival and departure card, to get one of these costs another $1 and then you are officially in Cambodia. No one checked the luggage.

The next stage was a bit more dodgy. The Laos minibuses had unloaded our bags and we were left in the hands of Khmer DelBoy. He was the only person who seemed to know what was going on and his priority was trying to get you to travel further with his operation. I was going to Stung Treng and wasn't charged any more money. As I mentioned earlier I am not sure how people got on who were going all the way through to Siem Reap. It seems to me that as you get passed from one set of minibuses to another someone is going to say you need to pay more. I have no evidence of this, its just my experience of the way other places work. There isn't any public transport at the border and the journey to Stung Treng is two hours away and I didn't see any moto drivers hanging around. Unsurprisingly Khmer Del Boy squeezed us all into a bus and a couple of minibuses and off we went to Stung Treng. The road is straight and smooth and there is very little traffic. Once we arrived in Stung Treng Khmer Del Boy lead the group to a guesthouse for lunch, no doubt he has a deal with them for sending them the business. I was the only person to stay in Stung Treng and I went off to find somewhere to stay (I didn't take Del Boy's guesthouse).

Click here for Travelfish's take on the border crossing.

SE Asia XXIII - Si Phan Don

Si Phan Don translated means 4,000 islands. The 4,000 islands sit in the Mekong at a wide stretch on the border with Cambodia. The majority of the 4,000 islands appear when the Meking is at its lowest in the dry season, I spent a wonderfully relaxing and enjoyable week there. A big part of why I had such a good time and why I stayed longer than I planned was Papa and his Souksanh Guesthouse.

Papa, aka Mr Souksanh, runs with his family his namesake guesthouse. He is a 50 year old, has three children, and expecting a fourth with his second wife (his first wife died last year). One of the stranger culture gaps I found was Papa showing a photo album from his first wife's funeral, including pictures of him and his children crying infront of her urn. Papa is a small guy but surprisingly strong highlighted by his ability to drag you off to meet other guests. He has incredibly cracked feet, generally he walks around with plasters on. I think its due to being in and out of the long boat into the water regularly. Papa's English is tempremental, depending upon what you are asking and how much lao-lao he has had to drink. I spent ten minutes trying to explain walking across a log (which we had done on a boat trip with him that morning) with my phrasebook, which turned into charades. The people of Laos like to drink, either the legendary Beer Lao or the more potent lao-lao. The drinking of rice wine is popular throughout South-East Asia. However, unlike Western consumption of alcohol it doesn't seem to lead to violence. Papa liked his lao-lao more than most. Lao-lao is the Laos take on rice whiskey distilled by local people from femented rice. It is a strong spirit that bears more in relation to vodka than whiskey. Papa spent most of his time drunk. I went on boat trips with him driving the long boat and he was very competent at what he was doing whilst still being drunk. I did two boats with him one to Khon Phapeng (75,000 Kip), and the other to Don Som (50,000 Kip plus 10,000 Kip entry fee levied by the local villagers). There are lots of tours offered to Khon Phapeng, however, all of these tours go along the mainland and drop you at a viewing gallery. Papa on the other hand takes you by boat on a very scenic journey, down the Mekong through the ebb and flow of the islands and rapids. He 'docks' the longboat in a shallow inlet, where upon he lead us down a dried out arm of the waterfall over old fish traps to appear right infront of the waterfall. Up close and personal Khon Phapeng is particularly impressive. There was the obligatory lao-lao to honour the souls of the dead that the Lao and Thai believe are trapped in Khon Phapeng. On the trip to Don Som Papa took us down the Mekong to another island where we walked, climbed and scrambled our way to a small waterfall and rapids. We swam in the fast current and jumped into the plunge pool. I swallowed alot of Mekong water during this and when I surfaced from the jump Papa gave me a glass of stronger than normal lao-lao. Papa caught us a fish and we barbecued it at the rapids. On the journey back Papa anchored us on a bush in the Mekong and jumped in to collect snails from the river bed. A couple of guys followed him in and weren't quite as successful. Papa is extremely proud of the guests who stay for a long time. It is almost guaranteed that you will end up staying longer than you originally plan. Papa is very persuasive. One guy stayed for 2 months, others a month at a time. While I was there a French couple who stayed a month last year were back and again staying for a month. They had intended to stay for 2 weeks and then go to Cambodia but were persuaded otherwise. Papa regularly invited me to join him for lunch or snacks, and he didn't charge me. If the Beer Lao gets flowing then Papa will contribute a couple of bottles. On my first day he dragged me over to a bungalow where the French couple and an Anglo-Swiss couple were chatting. The French couple tried to explain my name to Papa so it would be easy for him to pronounce. They used 'steamed' becuase of the similar sound, which became 'Steamed rice not sticky rice', shortened to simply 'sticky rice' for the duration of my stay. He brought some Beer Lao bottles and then invited us inside to watch Thai boxing with him and his family. We ended up betting bottles of Beer Lao on the various fights, Si Fa or Si Daeng (Red or Blue). When I left for Cambodia Papa took me by boat to the mainland. Before I left we settled the bill which they had an under charged me, by not adding in the cost of the accommodation, I added it and paid them the correct amount. Papa then tied a piece of string around my wrist, so did Mama, and so did the French couple, followed by an obligatory shot of lao-lao (at 8am). The string tying ceremony is a Lao custom. The French couple were having a new long boat built for Papa (they were paying half, Papa was paying the other half). The building of the boat involved so many string tying ceremonies that it looked like they had plastercasts on both of their wrists.

Souksanh Guesthouse is very much a family affar. The older children and the wife do most of the work. They are very friendly. The food is pretty good and a good price. Although what you ordered and what you received weren't always the same thing. The girls taking your order would smile and laugh and I couldn't discern whether that was because I was sticky rice or whether it was because they didn't understand what I was going on about. There are better places to eat on Don Khon though they are more expensive. The accommodation is excellent value. There are three bungalows with ensuites for 50,000 Kip and double rooms with shared bathrooms for 30,000 Kip. Papa was in the process of building ensuites on to the double rooms (so prices will go up). There is a shared veranda that streches across the front of the double rooms. The only problem with the double rooms is they can get quite hot come the evening after heating up during the day, and the fans for the room (and the lights) remain on until around 9pm or when the film the girls are watching on TV finishes. The bungalows are made from traditional materials so are cooler.

There are two main inhabited islands where most of the accommodation options are, they are Don Dhet and Don Khon. Don Dhet has been colonised by the Vang Vieng tribe. The northeast corner of the island is packed with bungalows, bars, and cafes, which slowly disperse along the eatsern and southern shores. Don Dhet, like Vang Vieng, caters to the lowest common denominator and would make you wonder where in the world you actually are. Don Khon on the other hand still retains its Lao charm. That isn't to say it is untouched by tourism. Guesthouses line the northern shore from the French bridge east. The French bridge is a legacy of the French railway that used to run across the two islands and is the only link between the two islands. The guesthouses on Don Khon are much more in keeping with the local buildings around them and you feel part of the local community rather than an incongrous backpacker resort. During the day tourists come from Don Khon and Thai daytrippers visit. From the southern tip of Don Khon it is possible to go Irrawaddy Dolphin watching. There are an amazing set of tiered waterfalls, Li Phi Falls. There are beaches of sorts and it is possible to go for a swim. The water is clear and appears to be clean, although considering it has made its way down from China, through Laos and Thailand, I wouldn't want to be drinking it. Although you end up showering in water from the Mekong anyway. The interior is untouched by tourism, other than the odd Falang cycling round. Most visitors stick to the path along the former French railway or out to the East with Li Phi Falls. There are a few French buildings and a rusting locomotive near the bridge. The interior is filled with dried paddy fields and villages, even a couple of Wats. If you follow the route of the French railway you pass through forest and can chance upon a Buffalo wandering through. The people on Don Khon don't take a great deal of notice of Falang, I think it is because of the number of visitors they receive every day. I do not want to suggest that Don Khon is packed with daytrippers. For a small place there will be Falang around the attractions but even in the middle of the day the island still remains peaceful. I spent a great deal of my time sitting by the water enjoying the serenity while drinking iced Lao coffee (very strong coffee with a think layer of sweetened condensed milk at the bottom). It was very hot during the day and could be quite humid. At night Don Khon is very quiet. The only way to get electricity on the island is to run a generator and most of these shut down around 9pm.

I got a tourist bus from Pakse to Si Phan Don. It cost 60,000 Kip from the centre of town to the boat landing. Double the price of the local bus but once you worked in the cost of tuk-tuks at either end it wasn't too bad. It had the added advantage of getting you to the boat landing with other Westerners to share the cost out to the islands (shared it cost 20,000 Kip each to Don Khon, alone would have been 60,000 Kip). Even though it was a service targeted at Westerners the bus was not for wetsern sized people and as ever every bit of available space was used. The only way to reach the islands is to catch a long boat from the mainland.

SE Asia XXII - Same Same but Different

My journey into southern Laos took me through some extremely relaxed towns. In the midday sun it appeared only mad dogs and Englishmen roamed the streets. The locals were getting drunk in the shade. The towns along the Mekong don't seem to have suffered the bombing that some of the towns towards the Vietnamese border have so a great amount of French architecture has survived. Although it seems to be decandently crumbling and in Pakse, where there is money, development priority is with the ugly cake towers rather than renovating what the colonialists left behind.

The people of Thaket are friendly, not a surprise this is Laos after all, but a big contrast to what you find further south. I don't know if I was being overly sensitive but there was a marked change from how people reacted to you when you got off the bus in Savannakhet, after leaving Thaket. There are two parts to Thaket and the most pleasant is the old town along the banks of the Mekong. This is where the French buildings are and where people are very happy to see you. Thaket is similar to Savannakhet and Pakse a great difference is how easy it is to get into the surrounding countryside. I hired a bike and went off for the day to visit some nearby caves. The scenery is beautiful. There are weird rock formations jutting out of the landscape. The main reason to come out here is to visit the caves inside them. The first cave I visited was Tham Xieng Lap and I somewhat inadvertantly hired a small child to be my guide. We climbed our way across the river in the cave and made our way around. I was making slow progress on my rabbit eared bike but was still getting along pretty well when I was heading down a dirt track to the Buddha Cave (it is full of Buddhas). At which point a big pickup truck pulled up next to me and the driver offered me a lift. I chucked my bike in the back and got in. It turned out the driver was Thai, although I wasn't sure if he had been born in Laos and now lived in Thailand. In actual fact I couldn't really work out why he was there at all. He was a small chubby version of the King. His English wasn't the best and my Thai is limited, especially without a phrasebook. The conversation lasted a couple of minutes and then we arrived at the cave. I paid for parking and we walked into the cave. It isn't the most impressive cave you have ever seen but the atmosphere was good with lots of worshippers. I thought I would say my goodbyes to my Thai driver but he said he would drive me back (or at least thats what I understood). We got back to the main road and I went to get out but it turned out he wanted to visit some caves aswell. We managed to find Elephant cave, which is really worth the effort. Apparently there used to be an evil head in the cave so the villagers blew it up and what was left was the elephant. I didn't see the elephant until I looked at my pictures afterwards, I was taken aback by the rock formations and one of the locals 'playing' the hollow rocks like a xylophone. The locals had also built a set of very dodgy ladders up to the cave. After this I thought I would again bid farewell to my Thai companion. Instead he bought me lunch. I finally understood that he was a businessman from Bangkok in Thakek for the day sorting out a building contract. I got the distinct impression that he was bored and driving me around provided some entertainment. He dropped me back in town. I cycled down to Wat Pha That Si Khotabong. A holy site for Laos but not anything spectacular.


Thaket sits on the Mekong and is 6 hours southwest of Vientaine by bus. The road there is the straightest I had come across in Laos (all the roads along the Mekong are long and straight). The bus station is 6kms north of the town. I stayed at Thaket Lodge which is handerly only 3kms from the bus station but 3kms from the town centre on the Mekong. It is in a new busy charmless part of town. Travel Lodge appears to have fallen into the classic Lonely Planet trap. Once recommended as the best place to stay in town it lives on the guaranteed customers coming its way and lets itself fall to rack and ruin. I had a dorm bed for 25,000 Kip, which was fine although whether the bed linen was changed between users is open to question. The shared bathrooms were falling apart and the staff couldn't keep up with the number of guests. The main reason to stay there is that it is the only independent traveller friendly place in town (and there aren't many backpakcer styled places to stay in Laos in general). It is renowned for the Lodge Book where travellers write about their experiences travelling in the surrounding countryside. It is a great source of information, and you don't have to stay there to have a read of it. It is also the only place to hire a bike, a fact I discovered after walking around town for an hour trying to find somewhere cheaper. They charge 25,000 Kip for rabbit eared bikes, twice as much as anywhere else in Laos that I encountered.

The journey to Savannakhet from Thaket was another experience. We left on time only to drive at walking pace for twenty minutes, at which point the bus turned round and picked up a full bus load of passengers from what appeared to be a bus that had broken down. Needless to say the fact that the bus was already full wasn't a hinderance. The plastic stopols appeared and the new passengers were squeezed in as well as their luggage. At one point we pulled over, and with everyone packed in, the rear engine cover was opened spewing exhaust fumes straight into the bus gasing us. Sitting next to me were some Thais who seemed much impressed by my ability to say Sawadee, so impressed that they took photos of me and had their picture taken with me.


Savannakhert has the largest number of crumbling French buildings in Southern Laos. The town centre has a great deal of character, combined with a typically relaxed southern feel. The strange thing is that the people aren't friendly. A big contrast to Thaket and northern Laos. The jaded reaction to falang doesn't sit with what you would typically expect from a place that seems to have few visitors. Savannakhet doesn't have the easily accesible sights outside of the town that Thaket offers. I tried to visit That Ing Hong outside of town but after pedaling furiously for 20 minutes the bike I hired from the Tourist Information Office wore out my patience and I was sorely tempted to give it the Bijarne Riis treatment. The food is cheap and very good at Au-Rendez-Vous. Just along the road from here (towards the bus station) is the Sundowner bar. It is run by an Australian and his Laos wife. Sundowner had only been open 3 weeks when I was there. As the only customer I felt a touch sorry for them and found myself drinking more Beer Lao than I intended. I also ate at Moonlight Ranch, the food was good though the son of the owner was apparently the Laos incarnation of Damian. He just stood staring at me for twenty minutes. He didn't smile or say sabadee, true signs of devil incarnate in a Lao child. The best place in Savannkhet is the Friendship Shop (near the plaza on Th Si Muang). It is a quiet unassuming place with an art deco exterior. The staff are generally asleep. What makes the Friendship Shop such a great spot are the amazing selection of cakes and pastries that are cheap as chips. They have everything from chocolate brownies to pineapple strussels. I stayed at Savanbanhoo Hotel for 45,000 double ensuite hot shower, which was an uinspiring place.


Pakse is much larger than Thaket and Savannakhet but this does not mean that you are cofnronted with hustle or bustle. It has french buildings but they are few and far between, new development has taken their place. Even so the relaxed atmosphere was attractive especially with the temperatures picking up. The journey to Pakse was an experience even by Laos standards. When I arrived at the bus station at 6.30am I found myself on the most decrepid bus I have seen in Laos. It was rusting to pieces before my eyes. I assumed it couldn't possibly be the bus to Savannakhet so attempted to board the gleaming bus next to it, every Westerner tried to do this. When we left the bus station the bus wasn't full, this was only a brief respite. The benches on either side of the aisle could fit two people side by side, before long there were three or four crammed on to each. The roof was full of passangers worldly belongings and a motorbike. The aisle was packed with bags of rice. The 'never full' Laos bus policy is amazing because even when you think it isn't physically possible to squeeze anyone else in they somehow manage to do so. Laos would not be impressed by the Tardis. We pulled up for lunch and the chicken on a stick women attacked. If you didn't want a chicken stuck up your nose then you had to hold your window down. Once we left the bus station I discovered the only thing keeping my window in place was my weight and when I leaned forward it duely fell on top of me which everyone on the bus found hilarious. We finally arrived at the northern Pakse bus station and piled into a tuk-tuk for the journey into town for 10,000 Kip each. Although this may be a scam depending which bus you are on. I met a Norwegian couple in Pakse who said they stayed on their bus and it then drove them into the centre of town.

We had dificulty finding accommodation in Pakse so I shared a room one of the guys from the bus. We got a triple room at the Great Wall Hotel (next to Larkham Hotel) for $13 with hot ensuite and cable TV. It was the nicest room I have stayed in in Laos. The second time I stayed at Nin Nao for 30,000 Kip for a cold ensuite which was probably the worst place I stayed in Laos, although apart from the smell of rotting rubbish outside it was OK.

I did a day trip from Pakse to Wat Phu Champasak. with some people I met on the bus to Pakse. We hired a minibus and driver for $45 (414,000 Kip) between the four of us, which worked out cheaper than going on an official tour. Wat Phu is about an hour south of Pakse depending on the Mekong ferry crossing. The ferries are 3 boats lashed together with planks of wood on top. It is amazing how heavy a load they can carry, there were four or five cars on each one and even trucks were waiting their turn to cross. The ferries sedately cross the Mekong from Champasak to Ban Muang. Wat Phu is an ancient Khmer religious complex strecthing 1400metres up the lower slopes of Phu Pasak mountain range. The temple was originally built in the 5th Century and has been modified over the years since. It is an impressive sight especially once you have climbed to the top and look out over the complex spread below you. We stopped for lunch at Souchita Restaurant overlooking the Mekong, opposite one of the former residences of the Champasak Royal Family. Chamapsak itself is a sleepy little place stretching along the Mekong.

Tat Lo is a small village on the edge of the Bolaven Plateau. It is on the Se Don River. There are three waterfalls nearby, by far the most impressive is the one that is furthest away (10kms). I had intended to hire a bike to get there but it turns out that nobobdy has bikes in Tat Lo even though they have signs to the contrary. It only took an hour and a half to walk to Tat Suong and it is well worth it. A path leads down from the nearest village and brings you out above the falls. When I was there there was very little water and most of what was going over was being blown back up in a cloud of spray. On the opposite side to the village is a goat track that leads to a very dubious set of homemade ladders leading down the cliff face through the forest. At the bottom of these ladders is an even less appealing goat track that follows the rock face and brings you out underneath the overhang of the waterfall. The view is spectacular. I made my way back to the ladders through the piles of dead leaves, and considered the steep descent down or going back the way I came. At which point a rather large green snake rustled from one set of leaves to another and I decided that going back might be the smarter move. I went up quicker then I came down.

I had originally intended to spend a few days in Tat Lo. However the reaction I received when I walked into the village made me feel uncomfortable. Everyone turned away and didn't make eye contact. An unusual reaction in Laos and one that made me wonder whether the locals appreciated the few tourists they were already receiving. When I walked to Tat Suong I went through a couple of small villages and found the people there to be much friendlier. I stayed at Siphaseuth Guesthouse right on the river. I paid 60,000 Kip for a double ensuite with hot shower (there wasn't a sink, though there were taps).

When I returned to Pakse from Tat Lo I arrived at the southern bus terminal and got really irritated by the tuk-tuk drivers hassling me. I decided to walk the 8kms into town. I did it without a problem. My victory over the tuk-tuk drivers didn't achieve a great deal other than confirming that falang are weird. I had tuk-tuks pulling up next to me every 5 minutes or so trying to get me on board.

SE Asia XXI - Vientaine

Vientaine is a little bit plain in comparison to Luang Prabang. It feels much more Thai and recent development has scarred the city. It is though still quiet and the people are friendly. Vientaine does not carry a great initial impact. However, I found after a couple of days it has a beguiling charm. Whether its sitting on the esplanade watching the sunset over Don Chan, (the sand island in the Mekong) whicle watching the locals play on the beach, or wandering around a spectacular temple.

The visit to Kaysone Phomvihane's house just north of Vientaine was a highlight of my stay in Vientaine. Kaysone was the leader of Lao People's Revolutionary Party from 1955, and then Prime Minister of the Lao People's Democratic Republic and then president until his death in November 1992. He lived in the old CIA headquarters from 1976 until his death. The house and his office next door are the picture of understatement. They have remained largely untouched since his death, a time capsule of a communist leader. His shoes are lined up neatly by the door. The whiteboard with his diary for the coming days remains untouched. His winter jacket and suits hang in the wardrobe. The buildings are just bungalows and the interiors do not appear to have been updated since the 1970s. When you walk through the house the only trappings of statehood are gifts from other communist states which appear out of keeping with the rest of the decor. The guides were hugely excited to see me arrive. They were immaculately turned out. They unlocked the buildings and gave me cotton socks to put over my shoes. They were desperately pleased that I signed the guestbook, which was placed on a podium. Both of the guides were thoroughly charming and hoped I would come back soon (they plan to open some more buildings in the compound). The house is a great tribute to Kaysone but it isn't that easy to find. There are no signs from the main road and on my first attempt to find it I cycled passed the entrance. There is a guardhouse with a boom gate where some very nice communist guards looked after my bike. Just around the corner from the house is the bombastic museum built in his honour. There could not be a greater juxtapostion of style. The museum is fronted by a huge staue of comrade Kaysone. The building is huge and they have only managed to fill most of the second floor. The ground floor is completely empty. The second floor isn't even full of Kaysone displays, one section is taken up purely by photographs from communist party meetings, a large amount of the content is borrowed from the revolutionary war section of the national museum. There are a great number of communist guards hanging around the building. I had one guarding my bike outside. The architects managed to work in one of those 'god' circles which magnifies sound when you stand in it. It is at the top of the stairs to the second floor and a large statue of Kaysone watches over it. I amused myself clapping my hands and stamping my feet, which didn't seem to surprise any of the guards watching on. I was of course the only visitor, much like the forgotten busts of Kaysone Phomvihane in every town in Laos, the capital city and country seems to have forgotten there is a huge museum (and a small house) waiting to be revered.

Vientaine is in many ways a nondescript sort of a place. Vientaine represents the rest of the country very accurately, it is relaxed, quiet and without crowds of people. While war did not touch it (it was considered neutral by both sides) modern development has. It looks like any other small town in Vietnam or Thailand. It could be Quy Nhon or Krabi. What sets Vientaine apart is just how quiet and relaxed it is. I've not come across a capital city like it, other than Canberra. Canberra isn't so much relaxed as lacking in people. Unlike Canberra it doesn't have the excuse of two much larger cities to draw attention. While Luang Prabang is the epicentre of tourism with the architecture and scenery, Vientaine is the political and business capital and is the largest city in Laos.

While Vientaine is quiet, tuk-tuk have still descnded upon it like nowhere else in Laos. When our bus arrived from Vang Vieng at Talat bus station they were lined up at the entrance watching the buses drive in. When they caught sight of western faces a stampede developed as they chased the bus. By the time the bus doors opened at least 30 tuk-tuk drivers were swarming the entrance shouting 'where you go, where you go'. The only thing that stopped this chorus was when I got off and whacked my head on the door frame, which was greeted by a group 'oh'. (I was surprised it wasn't greeted by a chorus of laughter, the typical response in South-East Asia). We walked the short distance into the centre of town. Tuk-tuk drivers are parked all over the city (and the city really isn't that big) and you are constantly asked 'where you go'. Alot of the tuk-tuk drivers speak English quite well and you wonder whether they could not put their skills to better use. It shows that either other opportuntiies do not exist or the money made being a tuk-tuk driver outweighes other occupations.

While Vientaine isn't eye catching there are some sights worth seeing. Wat Si Saket is the most beautiful temple I have seen in Laos. It rivals Wat Phra That Lampang Luang (near Lampang in Thailand). Wat Si Saket feels old and unique. A cloister surrounds the Sim with large buddhas lined up and tiny buddhas sitting in niches in the walls behind them. The Sim is even more beautiful with a large seated buddha surrounded by smaller buddhas and the walls are again filled with niches and tiny buddhas. There are about 7000 buddhas in total. Pha That Luang is a stunning sight from afar. It is a giant golden stupa and against a pefectly blue sky it really shines. Admittedly there isn't a great deal to see once you get up close. Xieng Khuan (known as Buddha Park) is another place well worth visiting. It is the eccentric fusion of Hindu and Buddhist religious thought in the form of sculpture. There is a giant pumpkin sculpture which you can climb inside, depicting hell, earth and heaven. If you climb up the inside you appear out of the mouith of a sculpture on the top of the pumpkin. The park is only 20kms from the city centre but most of the journey takes place on pot-holed dirt tracks filled with clouds of dust. It seems that the money for the Friendship Bridge (border crossing into Thailand) paid for the road up to that point and they haven't got around to finishing the rest. I've not come across a capital city where only 20kms from the centre you come across a well used road in this condition. Our bus was packed to the rafters. On board was a US-Lao citizen who had left the country in 1976 after the communists had taken power and has only been back in Laos for the passed two years. A sight you cannot miss is Patuxai the Laos equivalent of the Arch de Triumph built with concrete the Americans intended for a new runway at the airport. From afar it looks quite impressive, but the closer you get the uglier it appears. An apt label has been painted on its side, "From a closer distance, it appears even less impressive, like a monster of concrete".

The national museum in the centre of Vientaine is a clear example of changing times in Laos. The museum used to be called the Lao revolutionary museum. The exhibits dedicated to the revolution are dated and talk of the American imperialist and his puppets or stooges. There are weapons lying around, including rifles that brought down jet fighters. There are personal artefacts including Kaysone's 'chest expander'. The newer exhibits relate to historical discoveries and ancient cities. There is also an exhibit on Gerrit van Wrysthoff who visited Vientaine in 1641 as an envoy of the Dutch East India Company, the most modern exhibit paid for by the Dutch government.

The Dutch exhibit is another sign of changing times. If you are an NGO or a foreign government and you have the money in a poor country such as Laos you can pretty much do what you want. It is an issue covered by Brett Dakin in 'Another Quiet American' regarding his time working in the Laos National Tourist Authority. It is an interesting insight into life as an expat in Vientaine. Dakin directs strong criticism at what he sees as westerners who work for foreign governments and NGOs, travelling the globe from one undeveloped country to another being paid six figure salaries and not being of great use to the country they are supposedly helping. He argues that their salaries would be of much better use simply given as aid. Dakin also gives an insight into life for Lao under a one-party dictatorship. In the National Tourist Authority promotion and credit goes to those who are in favour with the communist regime rather those who do a good job.

Accommodation in Vientaine, much like Luang Prabang, is overpriced compared to the rest of the country. Also like Luang Prabang most of it seemed to be full. I stayed at Joe's Guesthouse on the riverfront for 50,000 Kip for a single room with shared bathroom. It was a very small room, but it was clean (so were the shared bathrooms) and the staff were friendly in an abrupt manner.

Vientaine's southern bus station is 8kms north of the city. It is apparently 60,000 Kip to hire a tuk-tuk to take you there. I booked a ticket, including a tuk-tuk to the station, with DD Travel (on a side street from Wat Mixay near the riverfront) to Thaket for 115,000 Kip (the bus journey alone should cost 65,000 Kip). I was picked up at 5.30am. In typical Laos fashion we were rushed onto a bus as it was pulling out of the station only for it to drive out of the bus station and pull up 5 minutes down the road where we waited half an hour while being assaulted by food and drink vendors.

SE Asia XX - Vang Vieng

Vang Vieng sits on a beautiful spot on the Nam Song River, surrounded by limestone karst cliffs. Every silver lining has a cloud and Vang Vieng is no exception, although it has a very big cloud. Vang Vieng has been blighted by mass-market backpacker tourism. The old town doesn't seem to exist (until you cross the river) and local businesses seem to be purely devoted to satisfying tourist needs. The main strip is full of restaurants with exactly the same menu and a number of them are showing reruns of Friends. In saying that the scenery is beautiful and it is possible to escape the more negative aspects of the town.

Tubing is what Vang Vieng is famous for on the backpacker circuit. The journey down the Nam Song is lined with bars and people get watsed as they make their journey. The majority don't make it to the end so get picked up by tuk-tuks after the sun has set. We didn't do the ubing ebcause we got back to late from the caves. Unfortunately Van Vieng takes on the atmosphere of Albufiera in the evening with drunk westerners staggering down the streets bellowing loudly to one another. While this is fine on Southend High Street it doesn't sit with Lao culture. It seems that Vang Vieng has fallen prey to satisfying a lowest common denominator, getting people drunk cheaply in an attractive environment, and been very successful at it.

One night we dined along the strip. We found what appeared to be your typical cheap Lao cafe. They produced a menu which looked incredibly similar to every other menu along the strip. Henry and I ordered off of their chalk board (noodle soup and a rice dish), Jenna ordered tofu from the menu, The staff were greatly confused and after some mobile phone calls a chef appeared from down the street to cook her order. I don't know whether he worked there, or whether he just went from kitchen to kitchen following the orders off of the same menu.

While the old town of Vang Vieng has been lost, the over-development has so far been contained in the town and not affect the countryside. Henry, Jenna, and I visted Tham Chang cave with its interior of bridges and a balcony with a great view over the valley. We also walked the 6kms to Tham Phoukham cave. It involves a steep climb to the cave entrance. Once inside you are greeted by a large chamber with a Buddhist shrine. It is possible to hire a guide, however, we had a couple of torches and went off wandering. It was good fun even though in the darkness we managed to get disorientated a couple of times. In the afternoon we waded up the Nam Song river, the more traditional way is to float down on a tube.

It is possible to escape the negative aspects of Vang Vieng. We stayed at Riverside Bungalows. It is a quiet spot (apart from the dull thud from Don Khong island) with great views over the river. They have a variety of bungalows and huts to choose from, starting at 38,000 Kip for a basic hut, to 58,000 Kip for a bungalow with ensuite. If you stay in bungalow 16 you may find a foot long lizard living in your bathroom. I thought it was a model at first, but then it disappeared and reappeared the next day.

The bus station sits on a legacy of the Second Indochina War, a CIA landing strip (Lima site 27). The travel agencies in town will try and sell you the more expensive VIP buses or a minibus. We jumped on a public bus for just 25,000 Kip for the four hour journey to Vientaine. They seem to run every hour on the half hour (in the morning at least).

SE Asia XIX - Plain of Jars

Phonsavan is famous for two reasons. The first is that it is the site of the Plain of Jars. Jars carved from solid rock 2,000 to 1,500 years ago. The second is that it is one of the heavily bombed parts of Laos during the 'Vietnam War'. Quite something considering Laos is the most heavily bombed country in the world. A legacy that the locals have put to use by using the war scrap they can get their hands on. Both of these reasons make Phonsavan worth a visit. What makes a visit to Phonsavan special is that it feels like you really are off the beaten track.

The Vietnam War is pretty firmly rooted in popular culture. Most people in the West know that the Americans fought a war there. What is less well known is that the Americans also fought in Laos, in what was known as the 'Secret War'. It was a 'Secret War' because the Americans had agreed not to fight a war there with the Soviets and Vietnamese in Geneva Agreements. Laos was significant because it was originally seen as the key to safeguarding South East Asia from Communism. The French fought Dien Bien Phu to defend Laos from Vietnam, the battle that they lost and led to their withdrawal from Indochina. When Eisenhower handed the Presidency over to JFK he told him in a briefing that Laos held the key to South East Asia and if it fell to Communism the whole of South East Asia would crumble. The so-called domino effect. The Vietnamese did not withdraw their troops following the Geneva Agreements and while the US did withdraw troops, they soon replaced them with advisers. US policy was to fight a holding war to stop the North Vietnamese (under the cover of the Pathet Laos forces) to take control of the country. Once the North Vietnamese had been defeated in South Vietnam Laos would be saved. Laos also took on greater significance for the Americans because the majority of the Ho Chi Minh trail passed through it. The Americans used the Hmong (originally recruited by the French) to fight a guerilla war against the Pathet Laos and NVA forces. To support them they used airpower. An excellen insight into American involvement is provided by Christpher Robbins in 'The Raven's' the story of US pilots (Forward Air Controllers) based in Laos and Thailand who targeted the US bombing raids. While the war may have been considered 'Secret' that didn't stop Laos becoming the most heavily bombed country in the world. Whatever your opinion of US involvement in Laos the bombing has cast a long legacy over the country, particularly in Xieng Khuan Province in northern Laos and in the southern provinces where the Ho Chi Minh Trail passed. It makes you wonder whether it is correct to refer to this period as the 'Vietnam War'or rather the 'Second Indochina War'. Mines Advisory Group (MAG) is an NGO that is clearing the area of UXOs. They have an office on the main street in Phonsavan which has information about what they are currently doing to clear the bombs and how the bombs got there in the first place.

The Plain of Jars is an interesting place though not necessarily spectacular. There are jars, carved from rocks, scattered all over the area. A couple of the jars having carvings on them. There are 3 main sights that tourists can visit, the other sites (160 different sites and in total 4,000 jars) are still being cleared of UXOs (unexplored ordinance) from the 'Vietnam War'. The biggest of the jars weighs 6 tonnes. There are many theories surrounding their existence (including that they were used to store rice whiskey) the most likely is that they were funeral urns and the size and location denoted the importance of the corpse. The first site has the 6 tonne jar and the most number of jars (around 250) scattered over a couple of hills. The second site has ninety jars. The third is the prettiest site, involving a short walk across rice fields and up a hill. On the way to the third site is the wreck of a Russian tank (or at least what has been left behind by scrap metal dealers). The landscape is pot marked by bomb sites. When you visit each site there are signs up by MAG which state the number of UXO found when the site was cleared. A constant reminder of the legacy of the war are markers on the ground telling you where it is safe to walk.

What makes Phonsavan interesting is that it isn't a touristy place. While I was there it was very cold (due to the elevation) and cloudy often with spurts of drizzle. The town after being flattened in the war has been rebuilt and reflects the conformity of new design in South-East Asia. After we finished our tour of the Plain of Jars we went in search of the war memorials. For many nations war is a defining feature of their nationhood, their war memorials are given pride of place. In Phonsavan, a place so clearly defined by war, has its war memorials on a couple of hills 3kms south of town. There is not any obvious way to reach them and no sign that people regularly visit them. We wandered south and then through a maze of streets before deciding that we would have to climb the hill to reach the Vietnamese War Memorial (which was out of sight by this stage). Generally walking up a hill is not a major concern, however, the thought of UXOs concentrates the mind. We made it to the top of the hill without incident and stumbled upon the Vietnamese War Memorial, which was locked. Out of nowhere a very old man appeared who we concluded was the caretaker. He spoke French and charged us 3,000 Kip to go inside. I can only assume that it is his only source of income as he seemed to live in a hut in the corner of the memorial. The memorial is impresive, two soldiers stand side by side pushing forward against their common imperialist foe. The Lao memorial is a complete contrast, it is simply a stupa, again it was locked, and the only sign of life were the kids playing football outside. Our journey back from the Lao memorial involved climbing through a couple of barbed wire fences. On my walk back into town I came across a couple of locals one of whom had a jacket with USA emblazoned across the back. The Second Indochina War has undoubtedly shaped how the people of Phonsavan live their lives but outside of the danger of UXOs they all seem to want to forget it ever took place. A testament to Laos never really wanting the war in the first place.

The journey to and from Phonsavan by bus is quite an experience. Like every journey in northern Laos it takes a long time. It is rare to come across traffic as you climb up and down the side of mountains and pass through villages. Large parts of the journey were through thick clouds and then you would suddenly appear out the other side with a spectacular view. At times the view is the same as peering out of a plane window with mountain peaks poking through the clouds. For some reason on bus journeys in Laos when they make a toilet stop (it seems to be only one stop irrespective of the length of the journey) they stop in the middle of nowhere, never in a village. At one point we pulled over to change a tyre. We stopped on the outskirts of a hilltribe village and a group of kids formed up, curious at the sight of the bus stopping and westerners getting off. We also had a would-be stunt man on board. One of the conductors climbed out of a side window and onto the roof. The bus was moving pretty quickly down hill out of the lunch stop. It looked like he was just going to look out the window, before pulling himself up on to the roof. All of the westerners were amazed, whilst the locals didn't bat an eyelid. We think he climbed out so he could smoke.

When you finally arrive in Phonsavan you are greeted by a scrum of touts, they at least save you the money of a tuk-tuk into town. I choose Phoukham Guesthouse with Henry and Jenna who I met on the bus. We got twin with ensuite for 40,000 Kip. Phoukham Guesthouse was a fine place to stay, however, I met other people who stayed there downstairs and they said the rooms were appalling (check before you commit). We also booked a tour of the Plain of Jars through Phoukham. The price started at $19 which sounded a bit steep. I wandered down to Diethlim Travel who quoted $13 per person which Phoukham then matched. I don't think there is a great deal of difference between any of the tours. We were lucky that we were the only ones in our minibus. When we left Phonsavan we got up at 5.30am to find only a sangthaew in the main street. We were able to hire it for 30,000 Kip between the three of us. When we got to the bus station the bus was half full so unlike the rest of Laos you do not need to worry about getting their early. The bus to Vang Vieng cost 75,000 Kip and took nine hours. The bus from Luang Prabang cost 110,000 Kip (although I bought my ticket the night before in Luang Prabang so it included the tuk-tuk to the bus station) and took ten hours. The bus was packed.

SE Asia XIIX - Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995. UNESCO described the city as "an outstanding example of the fusion of traditional architecture and Lao urban structures with those built by the European colonial authorities in the 19th and 20th centuries. Its unique, remarkably well-preserved townscape illustrates a key stage in the blending of these two distinct cultural traditions."

The delight of Luang Prabang is wandering around the colonial building lined streets and popping into the myriad of temples. Luang Prabang is packed with temples and monks. One of the most atmospheric things you can do is watch the line of saffron clad monks collect alms at dawn. (Although if you read this article on Wikitravel even this act may have been corrupted by tourism.)Wat Xieng Thong is the prettiest of the temples, so pretty in fact that when the Chinese invaded they didn't burn it down. Wat Xieng Thong is at the north of the peninsula and if you cary on walking down to the river you will come across a bamboo bridge that the locals have made. They charge a 4,000 Kip toll. On the headland is a very basic cafe, which has sweeping views over the Mekong and mud flats. When I was there it was full of kids flying kites. Also on the other side of the bridge is Ban Xieng Lak a weaving village. A great place to get a view over Luang Prabang is from Wat Phu Si. The views are great although it does get very busy at sunset. The Royal Palace Museum is a great peak inside the former life of the Lao Royal Family. The throne room is especially pretty covered in multi-coloured glass tiles.

I did the Pak Ou trip from Luang Prabang. It is a two hour cruise up the Mekong to the Pak Ou caves where there are two caves full of Buddha statues. On the way back you stop at Ban Sang Hai where they make rice whiskey. The cruise along the Mekong is the best part of the trip, although the cloud and mist didn't begin to clear until about 11am. On the way back the sun had burnt the cloud layer and it made for a much more picturesque journey. It is amazing how unpopulated the area is and as you cruise along you only come across occasional breaks in the tree line where villages sit. The caves themselves are not that spectacular. The first cave next to the river is the most atmospheric. There are swarms of children selling stones and birds in cages on the way up to the second cave. I paid 70,000 Kip for the trip at Luang Prabang Travel and Tours (next to the main boat ramp behind the Royal Palace Museum). Once you get to the caves there is a 20,000 Kip entry fee.

Kwang Si Falls is stunningly beautiful. If you can only do one trip in Luang Prabang I would recommend this over Pak Ou caves. There are a number of small pools and rapids. The main attraction are the very high falls broken by pools midway down. It is possible to climb up to this first of pools. It is also possible, and well worth, climbing to the very top of the waterfall. From here you can walk across the top of the waterfall (probably not the best idea in the wet season). I did an afternoon trip in the back of a packed Jumbo for 45,000 Kip.

The people of Luang Prabang are generally very nice and friendly. However, it would be naive to think that the amount of tourists and money coming in to Luang Prabang would not have had an effect, I was chatting to a Canadian in Oudomxai who had been travelling for a number of years in Asia. He described the change as one where the local people move from a position of deference to the westerner to one of indifference and then contempt. While this wasn't a big problem in Luang Prabang it was still the most touristy place I visited in Laos other than Vang Vieng or Don Det. There were groups of kids, especially around the entrances to Wat Phu Si who were trying to sell you things and there was a little bit of begging. The 'high-class' tourists have made Luang Prabang touristy but not by bringing everything down to the lowest common denominator like Vang Vieng and Don Det. UNESCO World Heritage listing has made Luang Prabang even more popular as a tourist destination but it has also protected the city from some of the more ugly building developments in other parts of Laos.

The main tourists in Luang Prabang are middle aged or older. There are lots of North Americans and French. I have never come across as many French outside of France before. Luang Prabang is not dominated by backpackers, which has its advantages. There isn't a plethora of cheap bars. There are some very expensive looking restaurants and cafes, trading on the chic of the French colonial buildings. These establishments are very cheap by Western standards but an arm and aleg by Laos standards. It is more than possible to eat cheaply in Luang Prabang, there are the cheap noodle shops and in the night market is a stall where for 5,000 Kip you can fill a bowl with as many noodles and as much vegetables as you want (although I'm pretty sure I got food poisoning here). Accommodation is also more expensive than the test of Laos. I had been paying 60,000 Kip for a double with ensuite hot shower and sometimes a TV. In Luang Prabang the equivalent was 100,000 to 120,000 Kip. I paid 60,000 Kip at Merry Guesthouse 2 for a twin with shared bathroom. It was OK but nothing special, the shoe rack was always full so I think alot of people had to settle for it. Merry Guesthouse 2 is quite noisy due to the family who own it. There are, like the restaurants, expensive boutique hotel options as well.

I arrived in Luang Prabang by bus from Oudomxai. I had stopped in Oudomxai to break up the journey to Luang Prabang from Luang Nam Tha. It was four hours sitting on a plstic stool in the aisle of the bus over bumpy gravel roads going up and down hill sides from Luang Nam Tha to Oudomxai. The road from Oudomxai to Luang Prabang is much better quality, though it still takes five hours. I stayed at Lithavixay Guesthouse, it was 60,000 Kip for a double with hot ensuite and TV. There isn't a great deal to do in Oudomxai. At sunset it seems all the tourists in town head up to Phu That on a hill in the centre of town. There is also the bust of Kaysone Phomvihane. Kaysone Phomvihane was the leader of the Laos PDR from 1975 until his death in 1992. These busts are in every town in Laos in the most out of the way places. They appear to be shiny and new and yet forgotten. Apparently after his death North Korea donated 50 busts to Laos. One of the tricks to travelling in northern Laos is arriving early for your bus. Often the buses leave before 7am. Generally there is one bus in the morning (maybe two) and they are normally packed. The locals get there early to make sure they get on, so even if you have a ticket you are not guaranteed a seat. The bus station in Oudomxai, surprisingly for Laos, is near the centre of town, so you don't need to get a tuk-tuk there or back. Unlike in Luang Prabang where its another 10,000 Kip share tuk-tuk into town. I got to the bus an hour before departure and got one of the last seats. With half an hour to go it filled until there was no space left on board. People were squeezed down the aisle and around the driver. After a couple of hours we had a toilet break and I got chatting to the driver who spoke perfect English. It turned out he had a passion for magicians and seemed delighted to be able to talk to a native English speaker about them. He hadn't heard of Paul Daniels.