Friday, December 22, 2006

Oz III - Silly Season

It is only 3 days until Christmas and I feel the least Christmasy possible. For starters looking out the window I am gazing over a bright sunny day . The weather hasn't been brilliant for the past couple of weeks (and Christmas day could be overcast) but even when it rains it is still warm. I associated Christmas with dark days and cold weather. There are Christmas decorations but these are few and far between. I don't have a TV so haven't seen any Christmas specials or Christmas adverts. I haven't been inside many shopping centres. I have heard a handful of Christmas songs and as yet have not heard 'Merry Christmas Everybody' by Slade. I haven't had an advent calendar. I haven't had any mulled wine to drink. I haven't seen buildings covered in Christmas lights. I have eaten one mince pie and it wasn't what I would describe as a traditional mince pie. I haven't had to defrost my car and then watch the windscreen freeze halfway down the road. Also for some reason Australians call this time of year the 'Silly season' or the 'Holiday season'. This isn't to suggest I am having a bad time. Its just not Christmas.
I moved out of the gay impersonator's house to a converted mansion in Bondi Junction. It is very much like University living. I have a sink and fridge in my room. The bathroom and showers are communal and so is the kitchen. 35 people live in the mansion, young and old. I moved in at the weekend and have so far met lots of English and Irish backpackers. I can see the Pacific Ocean from outside my door. The area is nice with good transport links. My two jobs have ticked along to the Christmas break. The call centre job got much better after the first two weeks. I got to know alot more people there and how far you were allowed to bend the 'rules'. The 9-5 job has worked out very. The telemarketing finished last week and I have been kept on into this week entering the data from the research. I then coming back for the middle two weeks in January to do some more work towards their marketing plan. The first week of Jan I will spend watching the final Ashes test (I have managed to get a ticket for the 4th day, hopefully England last that long) and the final week of Jan I'm going to go to Melbourne and catch some of the Australian Tennis Open.
I got in contact with the Sydney Comedy Store (www.comedystore.com.au) and performed their last week. The gig went very well. The audience were in good spirits, lots of Christmas parties, and the other acts were good. I got another gig there on Tuesday night. I was a bit nervous beforehand because I didn't want to spoil my good work from the week before. The audience were much less forgiving than the week before and the acts on before me were struggling, if not dying. I managed to do an even better job than last week. I will hopefully have a couple more gigs there in January. I have also performed with the local short-form improv troupe, Scared Scriptless (scriptless.improaustralia.com.au). They are a really nice bunch of people. One of the guys remembers me from coming to watch the Imps in Oxford a couple of years ago. The show itself was a bit awkward. It was a big Christmas Micetro show with a cast of 20 and multiple hosts. It meant it didn't really work well until the end. I am looking forward to performing with them again in the New Year.

Sunday, December 03, 2006

Oz II - At the Coal Face

I am not suggesting that I am a northener covered in soot working to bring a loaf of hovis up a cobbled hill with five kids all wanting their bread and dripping, and a wife who wants a new pair of stockings, but I am working hard. Today was my first day off in two whole weeks. Admittedly I haven't worked for 4 and a half months prior to that but I said I would work when I got to Sydney and true to my word I am doing that. The call centre telemarketing job has been a bit of a rollercoaster, at times I want to glass a supervisor and other times I am bored. In fairness it isn't a bad job. All you do is sit at a desk and dial numbers, if you get through to someone you give them the pitch if they don't hang up or abuse you (or sound like they are going to die) then you ask them some questions. It isn't exactly rocket science. What really grates me about the job is the rudeness of the supervisors. I hate people being rude, especially to me. I hate it when people patronise me and treat me like a child. I do childish things and I am incompetent but so is Des O'Connor and people don't patronise him. On Saturday one of the supervisors had obviously had a bad night because he was constantly dragging people into the office for appraisals. Appraisals in telemarketing call centres are warnings, you do it again you are out. I could accept this but what I find unacceptable is that the supervisor was yelling at these people. It was as if he was the teacher and we were the naughty children. Man management is appallingly poor. If they treated people with some level of respect then they might have a lower staff turnover. The other job is much better. We are treated as peers and left to our own devices. I get to pretend that I am important and they tell me I am doing a good job, plus I get to look out of the window at the Harbour bridge.
So far my living arrangements are proving to be dull. I assumed moving in with a gay female impersonator would give me stories that could fill a novel. I have got to say that for situation comedy it has proved to be non-existent. We don't really see each other that much, when we do he tells me how muich money he has earnt for an hour's work and I try and say something before he cuts me off and talks about something else. I am amazed about how difficult it is to have a conversation with him. He talks about what he wants to talk about. He leaves spaces for you to comment but doesn't react to what you have to say. I am tempted to started unleashing controversial and offensive comments at him and see if that makes him actually listen.
My boss from Rayleigh is also a Spurs fan. He took me along to Oz Spurs last night. It has a group of Spurs fan in Australia (does exactly what it says on the tin). We were in a random sports bar in town to watch the North London Derby. There were about 40 spurs fans. 
Weather update - the weather has continued to be completely random. In the past couple of weeks it has been 35C and as low as 10C. There has been thick fog, massive thunderstorms, and heavy rain, not to mention overcast chilly days. I wouldn't want to be a moaning pom, but the idea that Sydney is blue skies and barmy tempatures everyday isn't accurate. Needless to say its a hell of alot better than the UK, I get more than 7 hours sunshine a day! It doesn't feel like I am coming to the end of 2006 because normally the end of the year is marked by dark days. One of the objectives of the tour has been chasing the sun. I am going to need to find a job where I can justify living in each hemisphere across the year for long sunny days.

Friday, November 24, 2006

Oz I - Sydney, Lucky Number Steve

I am in Sydney. I arrived here a couple of weeks ago on the 8th November. Since then I have been rushing around getting myself sorted out for a long stay. A number of backpackers I know from my New Zealand travels don't like Sydney. It is because when you have been travelling for a while without any normal life stress arriving in a big city having to find work and accommodation isn't the most fun thing to do. Sydney attracts backpackers like flies this time of year and this means accommodation and work are in short supply. A group of girls I know from New Zealand were here for 2 weeks and were unable to get work or accommodation and have left to head up the East Coast and try their luck in Brisbane.

Lots of people say that there is plenty of work in Sydney but when you are actually applying for jobs you discover that that isn't necessarily the case. There may be lots of signs in shop windows asking for staff but that doesn't mean that they want non-resident Australians for the jobs. There may be bars with staff telling you that they are looking for casual staff but that doesn't mean they ever get back to you. Finding a job here is a frustrating business. Not only that but the hostels are continually fully booked and over the Christmas and New Year period they are completely booked up. I arrived in Sydney and a few nights booked in the Wakeup! hostel. It is a really big hostel. I went up to my room and was met by the '506 crew'. The '506 crew' were a friendly bunch of boys from England, Scotland and Ireland. So friendly infact that upon my arrival they showed me pictures of all the girls they had pulled and pictures of them pulling them. Plus when the door to the room was open and a couple of girls walked passed, they jumped up running over to them yelling "Good looking girls there is a party in 506". New to town I laughed at their muppet ways and went out for the night with a pal from New Zealand. I returned about midnight and went to bed. About 2am one of the 506 crew returned with a girl waking me up, the rest of the crew then returned and decided to play football in the room whilst taking photos of their mate and the girl. Needless to say I was not a happy bunny. The next day I went about town getting my aussie mobile phone, bank account, medicare card, tax number, and paper working visa.

My luck kicked in when my parents arrived that evening. They are on a tour of Oz for their wedding anniversary. If they hadn't arrived I may have been stuck in setting up my life in Sydney frustration. However, not only was I glad to see them after 4 months I was also able to enjoy eating in restaurants and doing tourists things, which meant I was able to enjoy Sydney. We went out to Manley on the ferry, hired a car and went to the Blue Mountains (truly picturesque), did the Harbour Bridge Climb, had cocktails in the revolving restaurant at the top of the Sydney Tower, and generally enjoyed the city. Wherever we went my parents would ask the staff whether there was any vacancies and how the member of staff got their job. Whilst embarrassing it did become a game of predicting when they would ask the member of staff. It is also the right attitude to have when you are new to town and looking for work ASAP. Not only was I lucky enough to have my parents in town for 5 days but a couple of days after they left my Aunt arrived in town with a friend of the family from Perth for 3 days. On one particular evening we had dinner at the opulent Sydney Cafe, with views over Circular Quay, where the creme de la creme of Sydney snobs hang out, it was very nice.

As I have already said finding a job isn't easy. Many people would assume that those who don't find work are lazy when looking for work. In some cases this is true. However, the girls I know from New Zealand aren't lazy. If you get a job a measure of luck is involved. I spent three solid days applying for jobs online and walking the streets handing CVS in. I did not get any responses to these overtures (apart from some rejections in the past 2 days to some online applications) I have, however, managed to acquire 2 jobs. The first job is telemarketing. It is cold calling, telephone headset, boredom. However, it pays well and beats working at a coal face. The second job is telemarketing again but much more sophisticated. For starters it is in an office where you can get up and have a chat, go and make a cup of tea, and where your opinion is listened to and appreciated (at least the boss lets you think this). The pay is excellent and the view from the office overlooks the harbour bridge. At lunchtime I sit next to the bridge eating my sandwich looking at the Opera House, its a hard knock life. When I went for the interview for the second job it was going very well and I thought I had it nailed on. Towards the end of the interview the boss asked to look at my CV. He then said "So you're a FitzWimarc boy then", Fitz is my secondary school and only someone local would have ever heard of it. It turned out he went to Sweyne, the other secondary school in town. He spent his childhood in Rayleigh and emigrated in his mid-twenties. I haven't met anyone on my travels from Rayleigh. I don't know what the odds are on travelling to the other side of the world to work for someone from your home town. I would get rid of the first job (and I may still do if I can't handle the boredom) but the second job only lasts for 3 weeks or so and as we have already established getting a job in Sydney isn't the easiest thing to do.

Once I got work sorted out I then hunted for accommodation. I viewed a few places, some pretty dodgy and some pretty crowded, but ended up finding a place in North Sydney (the other side of the Harbour) in Neutral Bay. I am living with a middle-aged gay impersonator. It is a bit random. It has chandeliers in the hallway and lounge. It is clean and I get my own room. However, there isn't a TV. I only realised this after I moved in. I was also given the impression by the landlord that he would beable to line me up with some comedy/acting gigs. Since I have moved in talk of this has dried up. The location is great for second job, it is a half an hour walk down a hill with a view of the Harbour Bridge every morning.

The weather in Sydney has been changeable to say the least. Since I have been here they have had the coldest day in November for 100 years and the hottest (38'C) in forty years. When its hot it is really hot, the wind feels like an oven door has been opened. The humidity means that the heat lasts right into the night. It is going to be interesting to see what it is like once we get into the summer, it was 45'C last Christmas.

Monday, November 13, 2006

New Zealand X - Christchurch

I was lucky enough to stay in Christchurch with some pals of Ralph (mate who I stayed with in Wellington). Considering that they had never met me before they were ridiculously hospitable and friendly. It made a great base for me to enjoy my stay in Christchurch. Not only did Ralph line up a place for me to stay but he also lined up a gig for me with the Court Jesters www.courtjesters.co.nz - Christchurch's premier improv troupe. I arrived on Thursday night and performed with them on Friday night. They have got a great theatre space and have built a strong audience following (for the show I was in it was an audience of 160+). They have a number of very experienced and talented performers, whilst at the same time bringing through new talent. I was impressed by their professionalism. I only met them an hour before the performance which wasn't the best preparation for a show. It was fun to be back playing short-form. I was a touch nervous beforehand as I was going in cold and only there based on Ralph's reputation. I think I did a pretty good job in the circumstances. I nailed one particular scene and people seemed pretty happy with the show in general. Quite a few people I had met along the backpacker route came along to watch and enjoyed the show. I also taught a workshop for them on the following Tuesday. I decided to teach the Improv Olympic Harold and concentrate on openings and games. The Jester's seemed to find it all quite bizarre, not surprising as they had never seen an iO Harold before. I wanted to teach them something completely different and show them what other things are going on in the world of improv. I think they enjoyed it and we covered a lot of topics so there should be at least a few things for them to take away from it. If you are in Christchurch on a Friday night make sure you go along and see their show it is well worth it.
I really liked Christchurch as a city. It is said to be the most English city in New Zealand and in many ways it is. There is a river running through the city centre, which is pretty, and there are big parks and old buildings. In the evenings Christchuch really reminded me of Essex with cruisers in their modified cars pounding the streets, drunk youths fighting, lads in stripey shirts and jackets, and ladies wearing very little. The weather was great during my stay (I was even able to get the shorts out), it set the city off nicely. Jarv (one of the guys I was staying with) was kind enough to drive me down to the Banks Peninsula (south of Christchurch) and to Akoroa a picturesque town in a sheltered bay (the French part of New Zealand).
Ralph came down to Christchurch for the weekend and drove me up to Waikari, his home town. I stayed at his parents place. Unfortunately the clouds rolled in, so while it is meant to be surrounded by snowcapped mountains I can't corroborate this. We drove to Hanmer Springs and spent an afternoon relaxing in the spa pools (its a hard knock life).

New Zealand IX - On my God I can't believe it I have never been this far away from home

1st November - Mountains enroute to Milford Sound


I spent a few days in Queenstown and then got on the Bottom Bus trip around the tip of the South Island. It is the furthest you can get from Blighty without heading to the Antarctic. It was similar to the Eastas trip I did on the North Island. However, a big difference was that a group of people from the bus I was on into Queenstown also came on this trip. It was a quiet trip after the frolics of the West Coast but it was enjoyable. The weather was cold, rainy and windy for most of it which didn't help. The first stop was Dunedin. Dunedin was modelled on Edinburgh and is known as the most Scottish city outside of Scotland. It lived up to it with overcast skies and grey buildings. There were some nice parts to it, but it didn't capture my imagination. We went out in the evening and couldn't find anywhere even remotely busy, it was a Sunday night and it was raining. The next day we headed down through the Catlins to Curio Bay. We had a series of walks off the bus to see different things. It was OK but again the weather made getting off the bus not particularly pleasant. When we arrived at Curio Bay the weather improved and I went on a good guided walk around the area. The guide showed us how to make a bouncy ball from seaweed, a plant that tasted of celery, natural insect repellent and nearly led us into a Sea Lion hiding amongst the bushes. We also had a look around a petrified forest. In the evening we went down to the petrified forest and watched yellow-eyed penguins coming back to their nests. The next morning we stopped to make a paua shell necklace and had breakfast in Invercargill (the Southern most city in the Commonwealth). We then spent a couple of hours on a farm where we fed a lamb, watched sheep being rustled and sheared a sheep. I had a go at shearing and was surprised by how docile the sheep was, I expected to jump about but it was just lying their thinking of New Zealand. The nice thing about the farm excursion was that the guides were real farmers and not just tourist guides, they weren't particularly good at public speaking but they were the real deal. The overnight stop was at Te Anau. It is on a massive lake which makes for another pretty view.
The next morning we were picked up for the day trip to Milford Sound. It was a great trip. The weather was perfect, blue skies with a few clouds. The driver was a really fun guy called Jason. The drive to Milford from Te Anau and then back via Te Anau to Queenstown has to be one of the most beautiful in the world. It was stunning driving past snow-capped mountain ranges. The ferry trip on the Sound itself was very good. It wasn't particularly busy so we were able to enjoy the views. Underwater World was a bit pointless, but it was included in the ticket. You may not have heard of Milford Sound but you will recognise it from all of the tourist brochures and adverts for New Zealand. Once we got back to Queenstown we met up with some people who had stayed there for longer and again went to Altitude and World Bar.

Saturday, November 04, 2006

New Zealand VIII - Queenstown


26th October - Queenstown with the Remarkables in the background

Queenstown is the Bemuda Triangle of the New Zealand backpacker circuit. People get drawn in and never leave. It is set in an amazing location, on the side of a huge lake with snowcapped mountains surrounding it, a great nightlife, and masses of activities. By the same token Queenstown itself is not a pretty place. It feels like a naff alpine village. The buildings have been thrown together without any consideration of how they might look together. In saying that Queenstown does have a certain charm to it. I really enjoyed my stay there. It is a great place to catch up with people you have met earlier in your travels. I spent most of my time going out in the evening and recovering the next day.

The luge is the best value activity that you can do while in New Zealand. There is one in Rotorua and one in Queenstown. Concrete tracks snake down the side of the mountain and you race down them in plastic go-karts. It is amazing fun with a group of you going down the track together. I did it in Rotorua and twice in Queenstown. On the second day in Queenstown we were getting pretty aggressive with our blocking tactics on each other, ramming one another into the walls. In the penultimate race Chris managed to ram my kart so hard into the wall that I ended up rolling it. I only grazed my wrist and bumped my head, but apparently my facer mid-roll was a picture. I am hoping that someone builds a track in the UK. I also climbed Queenstown Hill which doesn't sound particularly impressive, however, if this hill was in the UK it would be a mountain. The climb is steep but worth it for the great views.

I stayed at Discovery Lodge for my first couple of nights in Queenstown. It is OK but expensive and the kitchen isn't great. The price is supposedly justified by the central location but Queenstown isn't a big place. I moved to Alpine Lodge, which was about a 5 minute walk from the centre, and much cheaper. It felt homely and had a good lounge and kitchen. Alpine Lodge isn't listed in the Lonely Planet Guide which I thought was a bit strange (I heard about it from other travellers). I chatted to the guy who runs it and he told me that Lonely Planet have sold out. They have a deal with the VIP backpackers chain to promote those hostels above all others. Not only do they promote the VIP hostels but they fail to list other hostels in places at times. Apparently the Rough Guide hasn't sold out.

Friday, October 27, 2006

New Zealand VII - Curiousity killed the cat

25th October - Me jumping off the Kawarau Bridge Queenstown the first commercial bungy site.

New Zealand VI - Skydive Hellos

24th October - Fox Glacier Skydive Hellos

Thursday, October 26, 2006

New Zealand V - Action Man

A title like action man gives indications of grandeur that I don't deserve but it does cover the past couple of days quite well. Yesterday I jumped off a bridge, the day before last I jumped out of a plane and the day before that I hiked up a glacier. James Bond eat your heart out. I did the skydive at Fox glacier. It is in the Southern Alps. When you jump from 12,000ft you are jumping level with Mt Cook (the highest mountain in New Zealand). It is known as the most scenic skydive in New Zealand if not the world. Obviously I didn't enjoy jumping from a plane last time so it may seem strange that I did it again. I bumped into a few of the girls who did the skydive with me at Taupo here in Queenstown and they were surprised that I did it again. I decided to do it again before the fear would stop me doing it again. I wanted to see what everyone else enjoyed and I found terrifying. It also seemed like the place to do a skydive. We were picked up from the hostel at 6am and driven to the airfield. The operation in Fox is on much smaller scale than Taupo. There were a couple of portacabins, 3 tandem instructors and a plane that could only fit 2 jumpers in at a time. However, this meant it was a much more personalised experience than at Taupo. Taupo felt like a conveyor belt in comparison. They go through the jump routine on the ground before boarding the plane and film it all if you have paid for a DVD. I did due to my Aunt giving me the money to cover it. I was pretty nervous on the ground waiting around for my turn. Once I got into the plane I started to get really nervous because I knew what was going to happen next. They let you take your camera in the plane and on the skydive with you, which is very unusual, so I was taking lots of snaps as we flew up into the mountains and over the glacier. It was getting a bit uncomfortable in the plane as we got over the mountains and hit turbulence. My instructor then went over the skydive procedure with me again, "The door is going to open, Anish (mate from the bus) and Mel (the other instructor) are going to perform a magic trick, they are going to disappear. We are then going to slide to the door I will put my foot out and then you will hang your feet over the edge, smile at the camera (there is a wing mounted camera), fold your arms and then we will tumble out of the plane...". At this point I nearly freaked out, I controlled myself by telling myself that I was James Bond. Now it may seem daft but mantras are an improv technique and useful for tricking the mind. I don't know if it is in the skydiving manual but it should be added. Anish and Mel performed the magic trick (has to be seen to be believed) and we slid to the edge. I smiled at the camera and then dropped. I was terrified. They film the dive by having a camera mounted to the instructor's arm, so it means it is with you the whole way. My scream in the fall out of the plane can be heard above the wind noise and my expression is priceless. Unlike the first dive once we stopped rolling and got into the freefall position I relaxed and enjoyed it. I was able to take in what was around me and wave at the camera. The parachute opened, which was again scary and then we started to float around. I thought it was brilliant. It is amazingly peaceful and quiet when the parachute has opened. I got my camera out and took a few photos. While we were floating around rather than leave you in the standing position they get you to lift your legs up and then move the straps around so that you are sitting. For the landing you raise your legs and come sliding in across a field. When we did it the parachute collapsed over us for the perfect ending. A backpacker bus then drove passed honking its horn and I was pretty pleased with myself. My tandem instructor, Greg, was great throughout giving me lots of information about what was going on and what I was looking at (although he did burp in my ear after the parachute opened).

Yesterday I did a bungy jump. I hadn't planned to do a bungy before arriving in New Zealand. While I have been here people have spoken about it and I became curious about it. However, I still didn't fancy it. I had heard too many stories of people putting their backs out, and bursting blood vessels in their eyes. I also thought it would be unlikely that I would enjoy it. Chris' philosophy has been that he wouldn't be let back into England if he didn't do a bungy (I considered this to be rubbish) but by the same token bungy is Queenstown. I also thought if I did it then there would be no way anyone could have any comebacks on me. I was still umming and arring about it on the day the Kiwi bus would be stopping at Kawarau bridge (the first commercial bungy jump). I had a chat with the driver, Buzz (he has done over 30 jumps and he has eaten a few pies in his time), and he said once I arrived I could watch the film see how safe it was and do it. In the meantime he would put my name down for it. We arrived and watched the 'Secrets of Bungy' film. It did not even mention any safety issues. I went outside and watched someone do it and decided I would do it. I paid my money and no safety issues were mentioned. I then had to sign a disclaimer, I read all the terms and conditions and the woman behind the desk commented, "We've got a reader". They weighed me and then said walk up to the bridge. I walked along and chatted to Buzz, who was giving words of encouragement. Chris and a few others from the bus were also there. I then put on the safety harness around the waist and the guy asked if I wanted to be dunked, I said no. I sat on the edge of the platform waiting to go. Dave from the bus was ahead of me. When he got to the edge of the plank he nearly bottled it, he was holding on to the edge and kept grabbing the instructor's hand. I then sat on the platform to be fitted up with the bungy. Now you may expect it to be an extremely technical business attaching an elastic band to your legs. It isn't. They wrap a bath towel around your legs, below your knees. They then put a normal velcro strip around the outside of the towel once. Between you legs they wrap a cord around the towel and velcro which has a bracket on the end to attach to the bungy. No one had given me a safety talk at this stage and my safety harness was loose around my waist. I asked the woman instructor if it needed to be tightened and she said no. She asked me if I wanted to be dunked, I said no, she tried to persuade me otherwise, and I said ok to a hand touch. She said she couldn't guarantee I wouldn't get dunked, I would need to do a big jump out to avoid getting dunked. I asked her about the dunking and she said you need to hit the water with the crown of your head with your arms together and not your face. Buzz had told a story of a friend of his who hit the water with his face and ended up with a couple of black eyes. I sat on the platform for what seemed an eternity. The woman called me up and I shuffled to the edge of the plank. At this point I suddenly realised I was going to jump off a bridge and I didn't want to do it. I again used the James Bond mantra and planned to do a swan dive (aka the Bond dive off the dam, lots of the english boys attempt this). She told me to wave at the camera. On the left is a big viewing platform with lots of tourists and the guys off the Kiwi bus, so I played the crowd a bit and got them to make some noise. She started the countdown "5,4,3,2,1" and I jumped. While she was counting down Chris yelled, "I'll tell your Mum you love her". My jump wasn't as good as Pierce Brosnan's to say the least. The moment you go is terrifying. I as ever yelled Ahhhh loudly. It didn't feel like the bungy slowed me down and before I knew it I had hit the water (I managed to get my upper body dunked) and was flying back up again. The bit in the middle I found really uncomfortable because you don't know where you are, you are bouncing and falling in mid-air. I got on the raft at the bottom and felt pretty shaken up. I had jarred the left side of my body and was a bit wet but apart from that perfectly fine. I am a bit achy though a couple of days later. I am glad I did it and am now on par with everyone else. I am proud of myself for doing it but I can't say I enjoyed it. In the 'Secrets of Bungy' film they say that it is all in the head, it is about forcing yourself to go against your natural instinct.

The day before the skydive we stayed in Franz Josef and did a glacier hike. It was pretty amazing hiking up into the glacier. It felt a completely alien environment. Franz Josef itself is a small place. It is there for the glacier, if you aren't interested in enjoying the scenery or climbing a glacier than don't bother visiting. We stayed at the Rainforest Retreat which was a very good hostel. The kitchen was big and well equipped. There was a big hot tub which came in handy after the hikes and the bar was good.

One of the Kiwi Experience traditions is stopping at Lake Mahinapua at the Mahinapua Hotel for a fancy dress party. The Hotel is in the middle of nowhere. Inside the walls are lined with group photos of past buses and hats of all descriptions hang from the ceiling. The man who runs it is an 81 year old called Les. The theme for our party was bin liners and I decided to go as a sheep. Ben, who won the fancy dress competition, went as a spider (with legs), and Matt (from Maldon) had a wedding dress. It was a really good night. Accommodation wise you stay in portacabins that have a bad smell of damp, but don't let you put that off the party makes it worthwhile. I discovered at the party that a group of girls on the bus had given me the nickname Jarvis (as in Jarvis Cocker) and I am now known generally as Jarv (it hasn't got anything to do with my singing abilities).
The stop before Lake Mahinapua was at Westport. We stayed at Bazils which was a converted home, this meant the dorms were really small and the kitchen facilities were excellent. Westport was a small place but with a nice character. I wandered down to the mouth of the Buller River and had an amazing view down the beach with mountains in the distance. In the afternoon I went jet boating on the Buller River. It was great fun. The boat glides over the water with two chevy's under the bonnet. We went up the river one way at 40mph with a few turns and rock passes. On the way back we went at full speed 65mph doing spins and high speed turns. If you don't want to get soaked, don't sit in the back corner where I was.
The first stop on the south island was Nelson. Nelson is the sunniest place in New Zealand and it showed. It was really pretty and the town had a lot of character. I climbed to the top of a hill to stand on the centre of New Zealand and get some great views. We stayed at the Prince Albert, which is a posh pub with a hostel attached. The rooms were nice and the bathrooms were excellent, though the kitchen was a bit small.
The trip down from Wellington has been brilliant. The driver, Buzz, has been very informative and helpful. I have got on well with the people on the bus and had a good time in all the places we have stopped. I have also done some superb activities.

Thursday, October 19, 2006

New Zealand IV - Arms trader or civilian?

I have been staying in Wellington with Ralph (of Oxford Imps and Court Jesters fame). One of the big attractions in Wellington is the Te Papa museum, the New Zealand national museum. When I went to have a look around the place I noticed a big crowd of people marching down the street but thought nothing of it. When I got to the museum there were barriers surrounding the entrances and policemen behind the barriers. I walked in and the protestors surrounded the building. I thought this was all a bit strange considering New Zealand has got to be one of the most peace-loving and least offensive places in the world. When I wanted to leave the building 4 hours later the protestors and police were still there. I had to get a policeman to escort me out of the building and through the barriers. When he did this the protestors yelled "Arms trader or civilian?". The temptation to make a joke at this point weighed heavy on my shoulders. Te Papa is well worth a visit even during periods of public disturbance.


Wellington reminds me of Sausalito (the pretty part of San Francisco). It has got a village feel to it. I was very lucky with the weather for most of my stay and I had the fortune to be staying with a mate. Travelling on Kiwi is great but it does have its disadvantages. It can become a 'Brits abroad' holiday (with Irish and Germans thrown in) and you don't actually get to meet any locals. It was really good to be out of a hostel for a few days and to mix with some locals (albeit uni students). Wellington is noticeably different from the rest of the North island (excluding Auckland) in that it feels a fashionable young place to be. It is compact to make it manageable to walk around and it has plenty of varied suburbs to explore.

Before I arrived in Wellington I went on a trip out to the East cape of the North island with Kiwi (the Eastas). The first two nights we stayed in remote spots with nothing in the vicinty. It was a good trip for seeing the rugged coastline (and to beable to be the first to see the sunrise) but it was a touch dull at times. It is much more of a sit back and relax tangent. There were two sisters on the bus from Jersey and their dad knows Alan Whicker! I wanted to press them on more Whicker details but they didn't seem interested.

After the Eastas trip I jumped back on to the main route staying a couple nights in Taupo before heading south. I stayed in the Urban Retreat again in Taupo and it is a pretty good hostel. It is new, the staff are friendly and the facilities are clean. The kitchen is a bit small and there are only 3 pans which makes dinner time interesting. I had a one night stop over before Wellington at the River Valley Lodge. It is in the middle of nowhere on a river. The lodge was specifically built next to the river for the rafting. It is a really nice place. The rooms are clean and the communal area is big and welcoming. Although if you aren't a fan of moths it may not be the best place for you. I went to bed around midnight and noticed lots of big green leaves on the floor in the outside shower block. I realised (when the leaves started flying) that they were in actual fact massive moths. I decided against the white water rafting, which turned out to be a prudent decision. At the first set of rapids the first raft rolled over and a few of the girls managed to get trapped under water. The guides had to dive in and pull them free of the rocks, but in doing so they damaged their knees. They had to bring the girls back on the rafts so they missed some of the rapids out and take it easy through the rest. The girls ended up with splints and crutches.

Sunday, October 08, 2006

New Zealand III - Kiwi Feathered Legends

I am having a superb time. I was umming and arring about travelling with Kiwi but it has turned out to be a great choice. The driver, Poncey, is on his last tour so is making sure he gets the most out of it. We left Auckland first thing Wednesday morning. We made our way to Whitanga stopping at Thames for lunch and Hot Water beach and Cathedral Cove in the afternoon. The good thing about travelling by Kiwi is that you stop off at the places of interest between A and B, so while it is a whistle stop tour of the country you do get to see alot of the country while you fly by. The scenery as you drive along is pretty spectacular, it looks a bit like Britain but kind of has a Jurassic feel to it. Cathedral Cove was really beautiful, it felt like you were on a remote desert island. The hostel in Whitanga, Buffalo Peaks, was very good. It was a converted bungalow run by a husband and wife. The kitchen was excellent and it was very clean. In the evening we went to the pub.

The next day we went to Rotorua stopping at Karangahaka a stunning bush-clad gorge with tunnels and suspension bridges. We stopped in Matamata for lunch, nearby scenes from the Lord of the Rings were filmed. Once we arrived at Rotorua we went luge riding which was great fun. They have concrete tracks winding their way down the mountain side and you ride them on plastic go karts. The tracks are about 3 karts wide so you can race against each other. Once you get to the bottom you ride the chair lift up and go again. It was great fun and very cheap (only $20). I then had a quick look around Rotorua going down to the lake and looking at some steam pools. It is really weird to walk around Rotorua and see steam rising from the ground. In the evening most of us went to a Maori Concert and Hangi. You are taken to a foritfied Maori village in the forest, it is kind of like Kentwell hall but more authentic. It is very touristy but an interesting way to find out how the Maori lived. The food is an all you can eat buffet using the Hangi technique. We were then bused back to the town centre with an eccentric Maori driver. He got us to sing songs representing our nationality, the English choose to sing London's Burning. He then got us to sing "She'll be coming round the mountain" while driving round and round a roundabout. We got back to the hostel and spent the evening in the Lava Bar. The band performing there were Boy Band who have been put together by a radio station as a parody of a real boy band. They are releasing a single. They were awful. We then had a bet on to see who could get the number of the"Gay" member of the group, I failed, one of the girls managed it. The hostel we stayed in was Hot Rocks. It felt a touch tired and in need of a refit. It was clean and it had free mineral pools and hot tub. I don't think I have ever been in so many hot tubs as I have since arriving in New Zealand.

On Friday we drove to Waitomo stopping at Te Puia Geothermal Reserve. It was freezing cold and we huddled on the hot rocks waiting for the geysers. It was a pretty impressive sight when they finally went. We also got to see a couple of Kiwi birds in captivity. They are much bigger than I expected, about the size of a football. We then headed on to Waitomo. The hostel we stayed at was fantastic, Kiwi YHA. It is only a year old and feels like a hotel. The facilities are excellent (though it could do with a hot tub). In the afternoon we did the Ruakuri Walkway. When we got back we played touch rugby which was great fun. After that we played volleyball, boys vs girls, and we won. Then we had a BBQ we bought the food and Poncey cooked it. I attended the BBQ completely overdressed. I was aware of this but decided it was a Friday night and it was pointless bringing clothes if you don't wear them (jacket and jeans with shirt, quality). We then went down to the only pub in town to watch the rugby. New Zealand bars do seem to be stocked with their fair proportion of randoms and lots of women who you wouldn't want to meet in a dark alley. Themale randoms seem to have great difficulty in leaving women alone. I don't think it is any worse than the UK, the randoms just seem more pathetic. For instance one guy's opening line to the girls was buy me a drink.

On Saturday we had a bit of a lay in, pickup was at 9am. (NB - Kiwi love early pick up times). We went for a cave walk in the Ruakuri Caves. It was like walking into a James Bond set. There is a massive man-made chamber that spirals down and then you walk through an airlock tunnel into the caves. When walking through the caves you are on steel walkways. Obviously the big event of the day was the sky dive and everyone was talking about it. We stopped at the Huka Falls and took some photos then headed to the airfield. In the evening we all went out to some local bars. We played a few drinking games and went to a couple of clubs.
The trip has got better as we have got to know each other. A big help in this has been sharing experiences as we go. It gives you a point of reference and gets you beyond simply talking about where they have been before New Zealand (even though that is interesting). In that respect it is a shame I will be leaving this bus to go on a different to the East Coast of the north island. However, I am looking forward to meeting new people and seeing more great things.

New Zealand II - Ahhhhh

When I decided I was going to New Zealand I also decided that I would do a skydive. I didn't tell anyone in Blighty just incase I bottled it. Throughout my time travelling I didn't change my mind. Once I arrived at the airfield I started to get a bit more nervous. However, I didn't feel like changing my mind. I signed my life away and wrote down my next of kin details. I then met my instructor and put on my jump suit. My instructor, Glyn, seemed like a nice enough guy but quiet. The problem is that these guys do around 15 jumps a day and get asked the same questions each time, so they either end up strong silent type or a comedian. Wendy (from Kiwi aswell) had a deadpan comedian, when she asked him how many jumps he had done he said 5 and he was still learning how to do tandems (in reality they have done about 10,000). I met my cameraman (if you want photos and film of you in freefall you pay for a cameraman to jump with you). Once you have got the kit on you then board the plane. It is only a small thing with two benches running down the middle. Each person sits with their legs around the person infront and you are crammed in. The flight up to 12,000 ft takes about 10 minutes. It gives you a stunning view of the Tonganika national park and Lake Taupo. I was pretty calm at this point. The plane then levels off and the instructors strap on. At this point Glyn gave me my only instructions, lean back, hold my head against his shoulder, and hold on to the harness until he taps me on the hands and I can let go. The door slides back and the pair sitting by the door disappear. I was at the end of one of the benches so 4 people went out the door before me. It is amazing to see people simply disappear out the door, they don't float they just drop. I shuffled to the door with Glyn attached he then told me to sit on the edge (the camerman was holding on to the side of the plane) before I knew it I was dangling and then I was falling. The fear then hit me. It feels so unnatural just to drop and we rolled over so I could see the plane as a reference point and see how fast we were going (you get up to 200 kph). I f'd and blinded my way through this while yelling Ahhhhh. He gave me the tap on the hands and I let go. The cameraman then came into view. Now what you see on most skydiving videos are people giving thumbs up or something along those lines. I didn't manage this. I managed to get a smile across. The camerman then poked me in the eyes on the visor and stole my nose (game you play with babies). This felt really surreal to me. I was falling through the air at 200kph and there is a guy opposite me and one strapped to my back (weird enough) plus the guy opposite me is playing around. The cameraman then appeared below me and suddenly the parachute opened. I had started to relax a bit during the freefall as I got used to it. The parachute opening scared the proverbial out of me. We then went into a corkscrew turn which set off the f'ing and blinding again. After this Glyn said "Don't worry mate you can relax", subtext - stop yelling. So I quitened the f'ing and blinding and enjoyed the view. This bit was quite enjoyable. It was great to see the parahutes of your friends around you and to drink in the view. The day we did it was perfect, clear blue skies. The landing was good and I didn't fall over. I was terrifed for most of it but not through fear of losing my life. I had faith in Glyn and didn't doubt the parachute would open. In truth I didn't have time to think until the parachute opened. Up until then I was in fear. I am glad I did it, but I am not sure I can say I enjoyed it. When we landed I did apologise to Glyn for the yelling, I am sure he has heard worse. At least I wasn't the girl from our place who landed and immediately threw-up. I am really glad I paid the extra for the video and the pictures. It was also really good to be doing it with everyone else from the Kiwi bus and to share the experience with them.

Tuesday, October 03, 2006

New Zealand I - Sweetas

Me sand boarding on the dunes at Ninety Mile Beach - New Zealand

I arrived in New Zealand last Thursday. I flew out of LA by Qantas (quality) on 26th September I arrived in Auckland on 28th September. I wasn't in the air for 36 hours though. When you cross the international dateline from East to West you lose a day, so 27th September 2006 did not exist for me (time travel included in the ticket price).

Anyway I spent a couple of days in Auckland and really liked it. I like the windy, curvy streets, its nice to see them again after all the block formations in North America. Auckland is a nice place to walk around and has a busy atmosphere to it. On the first day I went on a free day trip with Kiwi Experience (one of the backpacker bus companies) and went out to Devonport. It was a good fun trip. In the afternoon I wandered around Auckland (my normal tactic for negotiating a city) and watched the sunset. On the second day I went on another free day trip with Stray (another backpacker bus company). The good thing about both triups is that they are completely different. I have decided to tackle the rest of the country with Kiwi Experience. They have got a special deal on at the moment and everyone I have spoken has given them a good review.

On Saturday I went up with Kiwi to Paihia in the Bay of Islands. I was with a new mate of mine Chris who I met on the Stray bus the day before. As soon as we arrived in Paihia we went on a cruise to dolphin watch. We came across a pod and had them swimming up to the boat. The crew get you to lean over the bow and the dolphins come swimming up underneath. Part of the cruise is the opportunity to get in the water with the dolphins. The water is the Pacific Ocean and these are wild dolphins who don't hang around to do tricks for you. We were given wet suits and snorkle gear and then, when given the say so, jumped in. Now it is factually correct to say I was swimming in the water with dolphins, however, I cannot honestly say that I saw them whilst in the water. It was a good trip and we met some cool people on the boat. The next day we were meant to be going on a coach trip to the very northern tip of New Zealand and back again. The bus picked up at 7am and we were standing outside the hostel at 7am. What we didn't know was that the clocks had gone forward and we were an hour late (schoolboy error). We were able to move the booking to the next day and went up to the Treaty of Waitanga Museum (Maori's and British signed Treaty together creating modern New Zealand).

The next day we went on the coach trip. The driver for the trip is a crazy guy christened Auto (after the bus driver from the Simpsons). He had his 12 year old son with him. The trip takes you up to Ninety Mile Beach stopping at a Kauri forest on the way up. Ninety Mile Beach isn't actually ninety miles it is more like ninety kilometres. Anyway it is a public road and the coaches can drive on it. These coaches are specially modified to deal with the conditions. This coach had a 400 bhp engine mounted at the front instead of the back and it was raised higher than a normal coach. It is not unusual for these coaches to be lost on the beach. Auto told us a story of how only a week ago he was driving down the beach when he went through a body of water and dropped into a hole, with a wave higher than the coach approaching, luckily he managed to get out before the wave hit. It is quite amazing to see the coaches plowing along through the surf (he gets his son to drive at some points). Once you get to the top of the beach you drive along a river through the sand dunes. We drove down the river and Auto laughed at which dunes the other coaches had stopped at. We pulled up the biggest one - 85m. Before we went sand boarding he had given us a safety talk, basically scaring everyone from doing it. We climbed the sand dune (hard work) and got to the top being sand blasted by the wind. At the top no one would step forward to go first after the safety talk (a group of girls had stopped halfway up). Chris went first and I went second. It was great fun though extremely tiring climbing the dune. The video above shows my third and final run.

Today I went across the bay from Paihia to Russell. Russell was the original British settlement in New Zealand. Darwin described it as the 'hell hole of the Pacific' when sailors used to frequent it. Nowadays it is a quaint little place well worth a visit. There is a nice beach and the oldest Church in New Zealand.

In Auckland I have stayed at the Base Backpackers. It is a really good hostel. The rooms are big and clean. The cafe is reasonably priced and open for long hours. The staff are very firendly and helpful. On the roof is a sauna and a hot tub. In my booking I got a special deal where the saune and hot tub were included. On my first night I went in the hot tub with an open air view of the Sky Tower. On the second night I went in the sauna. I don't think I have been in a sauna before because I haven't experienced heat like it. I am sure it must have done me some good. In Paihia I stayed at the Pip Patch, which is a converted motel. It is OK but in need of some tender loving care, everything was clean though.

Sweeta is something that anyone involved with the backpacker trade says. I think it is just a general term used by the cool crowd in New Zealand. The guide from the Stray bus managed to say Sweetas at least 3 times as he jumped from the bus to the pavement. Bro is also extremely popular.

Friday, September 29, 2006

Improv L.A.

Improv Olympic have a theatre in LA aswell as Chicago. When I was in Chicago I chatted to Charna (who runs iO) about the possibility of classes in LA and she told me to give her a call when I got there. Now I thought it unlikely that anything would actually come of this 2 months down the line, but surprisingly it did. I was able to take 2 classes while I was there. One with Craig Cackowski and one with Dave Hill. They were both very good. I especially liked the class with Dave Hill. He comes across as a very nice guy, plus he is an excellent performer. Miles had a 'rant' about him because Dave makes it look so simple on stage.
I saw quite a few shows at iO West. What surprised me was how small an operation it is in comparison to iO Chicago. The audiences are also much smaller. I saw the Armando twice and the audiences were tiny. The thing is both shows were probably more entertaining than the Chicago Armando and yet the audience was smaller (in Chicago it sells out). I saw a few Harolds and some random shows. The standard seemed high at iO West although it was difficult to judge with the small audiences. iO West does have a nice feel in the sense that it is a place moving forward and growing. I saw a show at the Groundlings and was disappointed. It was a sketch show with some short-form improv scenes thrown in. The characters in the scenes were very good but most of the sketches seemed to lack a purpose. The majority didn't reach a climax. The improv was similar. I also saw a night of improv at UCB. I saw their Assscat show which appears to be the same as the Armando (monologist inspires scenes). The scenes were quick and there were lots of tag outs. It was very entertaining and the theatre was packed. I stayed for the panel of experts show. It was a full show of what is usually just a one scene short form game and worked due to the commitment and quality of the performers. They really took to their characters.
The improv scene in L.A. is very good. Only Chicago rivals it in the number of shows and places you can take classes. Relatively it is much less important in LA than in Chicago because so many people in LA are there for film and TV.

Wednesday, September 27, 2006

L.A.

Everywhere I have been people have told me horror stories about L.A. I have been here for just over a week and I like the place (controversial). The problems with L.A. are problems that haunt all major cities: dirt, litter, sleaze, pollution, traffic, public transport, unfriendly people. L.A. is different to everywhere else I have visited because it is so big. New York is big but it is focused around Manhatten Island and even there the main tourist and entertainment centres are from mid-town down. L.A. has several centres for entertainment and tourism. I have spent most of my time here getting the buses and subway around. People complain about the public transport here but I think the problems with it stem from the vast area it is trying to cover. If you live on a main bus line then you are fine and certain areas are covered more comprehensively than others. I find it amazing that there is such a big public transport system. It is also extremely cheap ($3 for a day pass). If you don't have access to a computer though you may have a problem because the system is so big you need to enter in where you want to go before you leave so you can work out which buses you need and where you need to change. The problem with all public transport systems is when you need to rely on it to arrive somewhere at a specific time. Luckily for me I was pretty flexible although I had to get a taxi on one occasion and I was left at Manhattan beach for an hour and a half waiting for a bus.
I have gone through alot of areas using the buses, and some decidedly dodgy ones at that, but nothing that seems any worse than in London. I haven't had any problems standing a bus stops at mid-night or walking home in Santa Monica or Hollywood. There have been a few arguments on buses about the disabled seating and people giving up their seats for the elderly. I did also manage to get involved in another strange situation with someone praying for me again. I got the bus from Santa Monica to Hollywood when moving accommodation and this girl started talking to me about my luggage. She then started asking about what I was doing and where I was going. She then asked if I would be her pen pal as she had a girl in Burma and a man in prison as pen pals already and a guy from London would suit the trio nicely. I tried to politely explain why sustaining a pen pal relationship was impractical but she kept asking. She then said she would pray for me. I am not sure what it is about my appearance that makes people think they need to pray for me, I may need a hair cut.
Traffic is bad in L.A. during rush hours (and the 405 freeway seems constantly congested), but what amazes me is that you can get around in a car. In all the other big cities I know of people don't drive because the city is too snarled up to do so.
I stayed with a mate of mine Matt from Uni. He has just moved to L.A. to start work in a fund investment company. He was living in corporate accommodation 5 minutes from the beach in Santa Monica. It was interesting to see all the challenges he was facing setting up a new life in a different country. The simplest things in the UK become hugely difficult in the US without any previous history of living there. It was cool to hang around with him and his mates. Santa Monica is a beautiful place. The beaches are amazing.
For the past few nights I have been staying in USA Hostel Hollywood. The hostel is very clean and nice. There is a bar and the facilities in general are good. I haven't warmed to the place though. The staff seem a bit 'too cool for school' and while they are helpful (especially an Italian guy) it all seems like they couldn't care less about you. There seems a large number of staff and I wonder if because of this they don't need to interact with those staying at the hostel. I wouldn't say this is a reason not to stay here though. Hollywood itself is a bit of a dodgy area. It is no worse than anywhere else. It is dirty and sleazy and there isn't anything to really do (unless you are into improv in which case its perfect). Lots of buses (and the subway) run via Hollywood so it makes it easier to get to other places.
While I have been in L.A. I have also visited Long Beach (Belmont Shore is a really nice pretty area), Pasadena (again pretty), Getty Centre (great views and lots of art), Manhatten, Hermosa, and Redondo beaches which are beautiful, and downtown L.A. The downtown area is compact. The Mexican area is quaint. City Hall is also worth visiting, the security guards there are extremely helpful, and you get great views from the top. I also got down to the La Brea Tar Pits (the ones with the Mammoths) and to Universal Studios. Universal Studios was good, though some of the attractions were disappointing. The tram ride around the lot and through some rides (earthquake, jaws) felt really dated. The Back to the Future ride again felt really dated and didn't last long. The Terminator and Waterworld shows though were excellent. It is all tongue in cheek (you need to be in the right frame of mind) but they were entertaining. Waterworld was kind of a pantomime on water with explosions and planes crashing.

Sunday, September 24, 2006

You know you are hungry when...

It was 7.30am nowhere was open and I was about to sit on a coach for 8 hours. The chef/server in the Greyhound station cafe in Sacramento didn't have any front teeth and it looked like the other teeth weren't planning to hang around for much longer. The bloke's uniform appeared to consist of different stains. Normally fast food restaurants put the dirty members of staff in places you can't see them, such as the kitchen. I plumped for pancakes and they were pretty awful.
One of the great things about North American living is how cheap it is to eat out. In many circumstances you are paying in dollars what you would pay in pounds and then you throw in the exchange rate. Not only that but you get either very good or huge portions. I struggle with free refills because I always feel the need to get my money's worth at the expense of how much I will happily drink before feeling ill. Everywhere will give you tap water without considering you to be the lowest form of mankind.
The standard of service is generally high. In Portland I chanced upon a restaurant called Gyspy that from the outside looked dodgy but was in actual fact very good. The food and service were excellent (best mashed potatoes I have ever had), for some reason the waiter also gave me free drinks. The worst place for service is on Amtrak. The food itself is pretty good (though more expensive than standard American prices) but the service is appalling. The waiters are constantly aggressive and back biting.

Tuesday, September 19, 2006

Sunny Sacramento

I arrived in Sacramento at 7am after spending a day and a night on the train from Portland. I had a great day there. The sun was out and the skies were cloudless. I was in Sacramento on a Saturday and the downtown area was very quiet, the number of streets I walked alone on was surprising. However, this did not detract from my stay. There is an Old Town section of Sacramento which has been preserved from the 1860s, very touristy but lovely to walk around. I also went on a steam train ride there (a little bit pointless but cheap). I also had a look around the State Capitol building (very impressive) and stood outside the Governator's office. I wandered through the streets down to Sutter's Fort, which was the original settlement back in the 1830s. They had volunteers there who 'work' over the weekend as people would have done, kind of like Kentwell Hall but American and set in the early 19th century.

I stayed in HI Sacramento which was a great hostel. The staff were very friendly and helpful. The hostel is in an old mansion and because of that the rooms are huge. There were big lockers in my room. It is right in the heart of town aswell.
I am now in LA staying with a friend of mine, Matt from Oxford, who is starting a new job here. He is currently living in Santa Monica in a great apartment complex with a swimming pool and tennis courts. I got the Greyhound down here from Sacramento. On the journey you really get an impression of the Hispanic influence on California. A number of the small towns you stop in enroute look Mexican. A large proportion of the people on the coach were speaking Spanish and some couldn't speak English.

Hmmm Portland...

I stayed in Portland 2 nights and it wasn't a moving experience. Portland is a nice place. The cty centre is compact and walkable. The public transport is excellent and certain parts are free. There are lots of restaurants. There is no sales tax. The people are very nice. Prices are cheap. However, I struggled to find things to do in Portland (even in a day). It strikes me as a nice place to live but if you are visiting there isn't anything really worth seeing. The countryside surrounding Portland is apparently very pretty but I couldn't see Mount Hood because of the almost constant overcast clouds and rain. In every way it was mediocre compared to the other cities I have visited on my travels (maybe thats why it would be a good place to live).
The hostel I was stayed in was the worst one I have stayed in so far. It was HI Portland NW. The staff were very friendly. However, the room I stayed in didn't have a door (just a curtain) and there weren't big lockers in the room to put your bag. Also it isn't a good start when you look at the bunk below you and see lots of empty crushed beer cans. The occupier of the bed then walked in and smelt of crushed beer cans and sweaty tobacco. He had his stuff strewn across the room and so did the other members of the room. He seemed like a nice enough guy just an alcoholic whose lungs were shot through smoking and with a personal hygiene problem.

Friday, September 15, 2006

Seattle Sorted

I left Vancouver yesterday and got the bus down to Seattle. Unfortunately all the accommodation was sold out or too expensive so I went straight on to Portland. I did have an hour and a half window to leg it round Seattle. I managed to get to Pike Place Market, up to the Space Needle, and have a Starbucks coffee. Seattle seemed quite a bit like San Francisco, if less touristy and pretty.
On a side note if you plan to stay in the Green Tortoise Hostel in Seattle make sure it is open. If you ring them they have an answerphone message saying that they have lost their lease, however this is not mentioned on the website where you can book online.

Sunday, September 10, 2006

Victoria - Vancouver Island

I have spent the past 4 days in Victoria. Victoria is the capital of British Columbia and its on Vancouver Island, just over an hour and a half by ferry from the mainland. The ferry journey across is picturesque as the ship weaves in between the islands. Victoria itself is a small pretty town. By North American standards it is very historical. It is an easy place to wander around. I went to the Royal BC Museum and watched an Imax film about Nascar. The Parliament building is very impressive and its free to walk around, the staff and security guards have to be the friendliest people I have ever encountered (the woman on the information desk recognised the Essex accent, she has relatives in Chelmsford). The Empress hotel is quite something and has a very old-fashioned feel to it when you look around it. What really caught my attention were the views from the South of Victoria across the Juan De Fuca Strait to the San Juan Islands and mainland America, absolutely breathtaking.

I did a day of busing it around, going out to Oak Bay and then up the coast to Sooke. Public transport in Canada appears to be extremely similar to that in the UK. The number of weirdos seems to be about the same. Mostly it is people craving attention speaking loudly about odd things. Then there is the high proportion of disaffected teenage youth who look mean and menacing but are as nice as pie to the driver and the other passengers.

I went on a Whale watching trip on my last day. Victoria is known for being a good place to go from as 90 Killer Whales live in the Straits, you are more likely to see them than not see them. Unfortunately we didn't see them. The cruise out there was good and it was great to see the Seals and Sea Lions.

I stayed at the Ocean Island Backpackers Inn. The quotes on the leaflet make it sound fantastic. The location is excellent, it has a bar inside and the staff were very friendly and helpful. The building itself was a little bit old and a little bit unclean. It wasn't so much dirty as having character. I was in a 6 bed room. I didn't manage to get one night's good sleep. Unfortunately the fattest guy in the room was sleeping on the squeakiest bunk bed, plus he snored, also people were getting up early to go to work. On the second morning I woke up to find the bloke in the bunk above me coming out of the bathroom with his face smashed in. His nose wouldn't stop bleeding and his left eye was badly swollen. It later turned out that this guy had decided to go and buy drugs from the local dealers and after purchasing he thought it would be a good idea to get trappy with the merchants, they didn't appreciate this and rearranged his face for him. Apart from that it was a nice place to stay.

Whistler

The first day that I arrived I went out for dinner with my Great Uncle Bill and Ann (before we went out I had a sleep in the afternoon because I hadn't got much sleep the night before travelling on the train, my Great Uncle Bill woke me up only for me to reply "Where am I?"). The setting for this dinner was great. It was at a golf club, surrounding the golf club were the mountains and the sun was setting leaving an inky blue sky, stunning. Bill's daughter Gail and her husband Dave joined us for the meal. It turned out that they were going with their children (Carly and Jody about my age and Jody's husband Garrett) to Whistler the coming weekend and asked me to join them.

The day after my trip to downtown Vancouver I joined them on the way to Whistler. The trip to Whistler is picturesque. The road is called the Sea to Sky Highway. The apartment we were staying in was very nice and luckily enough had space for me to sleep on the sofa bed so I didn't have to stay at a hostel. Whistler itself is a modern Swiss style village. I thought it was very nice. The next day we played tennis, something I haven't done for possibly a decade. We then went to Alto Lake and Whistler Creek. In the afternoon we went swimming in Blue Lake, it was extremely cold, I nearly bottled it but the calls from my relatives on the pontoon drove me in. The water was perfectly clear and the views were as ever amazing. I prefered relaxing in the hot tub in the evening, much more comfortable. In the evening Jody and Garrett arrived from Vancouver. The next day we played tennis again and when to Alto Lake, the others swam I decided to enjoy the sun. We wandered about town in the afternoon and went to Blue Lake. In the evening we went out for dinner with some friends of Gail and Dave's.

The next morning I went up Whistler Peak. It cost $30 and was well worth it. The views are spectacular. Some of my pictures I have uploaded capture elements of it. I got the gondola up to the ski lodge and then the chair lift to the peak. The chair lift was great because it was silent sweeping up the mountain side. At the top it was still pretty hot (the weather was hot and sunny the whole time I was there). If you go to Whistler you have to go to the peak.

Whistler was amazing. It was great to spend a weekend with some of my Canadian relatives who really made me feel at home. Whistler itself was enchanting. If you come to Vancouver make sure you at least do a day trip to Whistler. The great thing about Vancouver is its setting. If you simply stay in downtown Vancouver you really don't get an appreciation of what the area is and what makes it special.

Vancouver

I stayed 3 nights at the HI Vancouver Central on Granville Street. It was a really nice Hostel. It had obviously been a hotel. The bathrooms were really clean and the all you can eat breakfast was welcome. The staff were OK but nowhere near as friendly as Fort Mason HI. It was a good location to explore the city from. Granville Street is the red light district of Vancouver. It is a little dodgy. However, I am glad I didn't decide to stay in one of the hostels in Gastown. Vancouver has a big problem with begging and homeless people. There appeared to be the same number as San Fran if not more. It also seemed to be spread all over the city, particualrly badly in Gastown.

On my first day I went to Granville Island which is very pretty. Little ferries run across False Creek along there. On the island there is an improv theatre for theatrsports. Unfortunately I wasn't downtown when they had shows on. The next day I walked out to English Bay Beach then around Stanley Park to the Aquarium (saw a dolphin performance) then across town via Canada place to Gastwon and Chinatown, then back to the hostel. In the evening I went on a pub crawl organised by the hostel. There were a few Australians on the crawl, it appears most travellers are either British or Australian (at least in this part of the world). The next day I got the sea bus across to North Vancouver and then got the buses around for the day. Public transport in the Vancouver area is excellent and very cheap. The day pass cost me $8 and I went out to Deep Cove and up to Lynn Valley. I crossed the suspension bridge and wandered around the valley. I then went to a comedy night again organised by the hostel. The next day I went back to Granville Island and then headed bback to my Great Uncle's.

Downtown Vancouver is a great palce to spend some time. The weather was perfect throughout my stay. It is a really easy place to get around and the setting is amazing.

Canada

I am in Canada! I arrived a couple of weeks ago on the Amtrak Coast Starlight from San Francisco. Amtrak is a really nice way to travel just so long as you don't need to arrive on time. We arrived in Seattle 7 hours late. Apparently when the Coast Starlight runs South it can arrive in LA 13 hours late. I met another nice family while having dinner on the train. The first thing the mother said to me finished with "eh" (sure fire sign of Canadian). "eh" is extremely common and I find it endearing. I really like different accents. It makes it much easier for an ignorant English person to distinguish between Americans and Canadians.

I am staying with my Great Uncle Bill and his wife Ann. They live about the same distance from downtown Vancouver as I do from central London (about an hour). The difference is that the scenery round here is spectacular. You realise you are living in a wild part of the world when your Great Uncle tells you to watch out for coyotes whilst walking the dogs. I spent a couple of days with them and then went to downtown Vancouver.

Tuesday, September 05, 2006

San Francisco

OK so I am quite a bit behind with the blog, I am just too busy having a great time (and I am lazy).
San Francisco is cold in the Summer. Mark Twain recognised this a while back, "the coldest Winter I ever spent was a Summer in San Francisco" (or something along those lines). Apparently San Fran is much warmer in the Spring and Autumn. When I say cold you need a jacket and trousers and if the sun is out you probably don't need the jacket during the day. It is also pretty windy. One of the amazing sights to see in San Fran is to watch the cloud come flying in across the bay from the Pacific ocean. I took to wearing shorts whilst in Chicago a habit I was disappointed to drop in San Fran (though you'll be glad to know I have been wearing them with avengeance in Vancouver).
I managed to get around and see most of the big sights while I was there. I did quite a bit of sightseeing with Jeremey from the improv course. We walked the Golden Gate Bridge (very impressive) then across the Marin Headland to Sausalito. Sausalito was one of my favourite places to visit. It is extremely pretty and while a tourist trap it doesn't feel tacky. Fisherman's Wharf on the other hand feels very tacky, in many respects it reminded me of Southend (not as many mini-skirts though). The hilly streets are amazingly steep. The city feels haphazard in design yet picturesque at the same time. I rode a Cable Car while I was there which was great fun. One day I walked from China beach round the headland to Land's End then down to Ocean beach through Golden Gate Park, along Haight Street, up into Twin Peaks, and down to Market Street (a long way). I managed to see the England vs Greece friendly in an Irish Bar. Alcatraz was well worth a visit, the audio tour was great, former inmates and wardens spoke about their experiences of the prison.
The HI Fisherman's Wharf hostel is very good. It is in the Fort Mason grounds, and it kind of feels like a summer camp. The rooms were all clean. The bathrooms were clean (the communal shower wasn't really an issue). The cafe (Cafe Franco) was excellent and cheap, it is open to the general public and I would recommend a visit. The staff were very friendly, much nicer than any other hostel I have ever stayed in.
I enjoyed my time in San Fran. However, I did always feel like an outsider looking in. It really helps if you have a local contact to get you on the other side of the looking glass.

Tuesday, August 29, 2006

BATS and Keith Johnstone

It was an interesting change of tact to go from 5 weeks being taught by iO to 5 days with BATS and Johnstone. I like both improv traditions, which seems to be pretty unusual in my experience. In Chicago most people don't know who Johnstone is and if they do they consider him irrelevant, within the Johnstone group people generalise Chicago as comedy barprov (there are of course exceptions). Both sides seem unwilling to give the other the time of day, bad experiences of either are remembered as the norm . However, I find it difficult to find clear differences between the two traditions. In essence they emphasise different aspects of improv. To generalise Johnstone tends to have a more theatrical bent behind it whereas Chicago tends to have cabaret behind it (I do not think this makes for less theatrical shows though). In my experience the teachers in the Johnstone tradition have taken their time on how to teach, they are interested in the art of teaching. The Johnstone tradition feels a bit more geeky to me than the Chicago tradition. The Johnstone tradition tends to focus on the individual: emotion, status, body language. The Chicago tradition tends to focus on how to make a scene work. At iO there is also a focus on group work (made explicit with their Harold signature long form). In many respects talking about a Chicago traditions misses the different ideas prevalent in the Chicago improv tradition.

The reason for doing the course in San Francisco was to hear Keith before he dies. I wanted to get the words straight from his mouth rather than being fed it second-hand. It was worthwhile doing the course. Although after the second day I was very disappointed by Keith. During the third day he seemed to become more inspired by his own teaching and his enthusiasm picked up dramatically. Keith said some things over the course that I will take with me and remember. He did not tell me anything I haven't heard before. I think the teachers he taught are better at teaching than he is. Rebecca Stockley and William Hall at BATS appeared to be excellent teachers. The mask work with William was amazing, and has made me want to pursue mask work in the future. I also found Alan Marriot at the Crunchy Frog Collective in London to be an excellent teacher (especially for musical improv). If you are in San Francisco it is worth visiting BATS (Bay Area Theatresports) to see performances in the Johnstone tradition.

As ever my classmates were great fun to be around. We all seemed to get on really well together. It was only 5 days but we seemed to hit it off. I was staying at the HI hostel just round the corner from the venue. Luckily enough for me one of the guys from the course (Jeremey, from Edmonton) was also staying there so we ended up hanging out and doing some sightseeing after the course. (His perspective on Johnstone is quite different to mine. Johnstone had the effect on him that Miles Stroth did for me. )

Sunday, August 27, 2006

Chicago - thoughts and feelings

I had an absolutely brilliant time in Chicago. The course was superb with excellent teachers. The people in my class and other classes were friendly and interesting. There was always someone to chat to after class or at a show in the evening. iO was a great place to hang around as a novice to improv in Chicago. I enjoyed going to see shows at Second City, the Playground, the Spot, and at Annoyance. It was great to be able to guest spot in Dirty Water.
Having Jon as a local connection gave my time in Chicago even more dimensions. He got me the guest spot in DW. He is a man who appears to know every improviser in Chicago so he introduced me to lots of people. His friends were all really nice to me. I was entertained at many parties by interesting people. It gave me a perspective on improv outside of iO and a perespective on Chicago as a city to live. It also meant I didn't go stir craxy simply staying in iO and staying with my class all the time.
Chicago as a city is great. Public transport is excellent. Everything is within relatively easy walking distance. Downtown is big enough to be interesting without being suffocating. The buildings downtown are very pretty. The parks are beautiful, the beaches are great. The nightlife is varied. The weather was hot and sunny the majority of the time I spent there. The people were friendly and helpful. It is improv mecca.
One of the great things about Chicago is hanging out in bars with fellow improvisers, and 'star' improvisers. Miles actively encouraged us to drink with him in the bar during the final week and discuss improv. After I saw TJ and Dave (another great show) I got chatting to TJ about his guest spot with Dirty Water in September and we chatted about my travel plans (TJ is a top bloke). I chatted with Noah (of iO fame) about improv in the UK and I spoke to Joe Bill on a few occasions.

Improv in Chicago - End of Week 5

This is a bit late...
Miles Stroth is amazing! He was our teacher for Level 5. I have never looked at improv from his perspective before and I found it insightful and helpful. He is a tough guy with a reputation to boot but very fair and supportive. We spent the first day working on scenes (he saw us do some scenes to start with and said that they "sucked") and then the following three days were spent learning his Deconstruction long-form whilst continuing to work on scenes within this structure. The final performance we put on was very good and the group worked really well together. In a large part this was due to his teaching and making us do the Deconstruction. The form allowed the group to be presented in the best light, with everyone getting their moment in the spotlight. I am hoping to do some workshops with him when I get to LA.
On Tuesday night of my last week in Chicago I went to see the Second City mainstage show. It was very good entertainment (a sketch show with some improv) and the performers were very slick. However, it didn't feel like they were taking any risks. It felt extremely safe. This is not a bad thing necessarily as they sell out every night and need to put on a good show every night.
On a side note, the funniest Harold I have seen was Deep Schaw on Sunday night.